Tuesday, 27 April 2021

Ambrolauri

Ambrolauri (ამბროლაური in Georgian, Амбролаури in Russian) is a 2,047 inhabitants small town on both banks of river Rioni, in the northwestern part of Georgia. It's the biggest town and capital of the region of Racha-Lechkhumi and Kvemo Svaneti. Although there aren't many things to do here, it's a good place to explore this part of the country.

 How do I arrive to Ambrolauri?

  Ambrolauri isn't quite well connected with other towns in Georgia.
  • Bus: there are daily marshutkas from places like Kutaisi and Tbilisi.
  • Car: if you rented a car, from Ambrolauri it can be reached Nikortsminda (aprox. 15 minutes), Oni (aprox. 30 minutes), Tsageri (aprox. 1 hour 10 minutes), Lentekhi (aprox. 1 hour 25 minutes), Kutaisi (aprox. 1 hour 30 minutes) or Chiatura (aprox. 2 hours 20 minutes).

History

  Ambrolauri is first recorded in the 17th century as a place, where one of the palaces of the kings of Imereti was located. In 1769, king Solomon I of Imereti granted Ambrolauri to a prince from the Machabeli family, Zurab (an in-law of the Tsulukidze, one of the leading families in Racha). After the Russian conquest of Imereti in 1810, Ambrolauri became a part of the Racha district and, in Soviet Georgia it became the seat of the Ambrolauri district in 1930. In 1934, Ambrolauri was renamed into Enukidze after the Soviet statesman Avel Yenukidze, between 1934 and 1937, when he was executed and the old name was restored. The town acquired the city status in 1966 and in 1968 it had a population of 4,400 people. The city was damaged in the 1991 Racha earthquake and, further, has experienced a decline in population and economic activity in the years of post-Soviet crisis. Ambrolauri became the seat of Racha-Lechkhumi and Kvemo Svaneti regional administration in 1995.
 

What can I visit in Ambrolauri?

  Ambrolauri is a place that doesn't have much to do, but it's a nice place to explore the region of Racha-Lechkhumi and Zvemo Svaneti. 
These are Ambrolauri's main attractions and the ones that can be found in its surrounding area:
  • Ambrolauri Museum of Fine Arts (10-17 Tue-Sun; 1₾/ 0.50  adults/ students and kids): museum established in 1965 which houses a collection of more thant 500 paintings and drawings by well-known Georgian artists of the 20th century, such as Lado Gudiashvili, Elene Akhvlediani, David Kakabadze, Ucha Japaridze, Koba Guruli, Avto Varazi, Levan Tsutskiridze, Natela Iankoshvili...
  • Machabel Tower: 17th century tower that once served as watchtower and observatory of the former summer residence of the kings of Imereti in times of king Solomon I of Imereti.
  • From Ambrolauri there are plenty of opportunities to hike, particulary on its north. The long, attractive, yet little-visited hike that is most recommended is Lechkhimi Range Route (47 km), a 2-3 days hike across Lechkhumi range by trails that were once used by shepherds and provide the chance to admire the impressive stone wall of Chutkharo massif or the picturesque Sairme Pillars.
  • In case of going some kms south, one can find a nice church, Zemo Krihi Georgian Orthodox Church. This site is a 10th–11th century hall church with a projecting apse, adorned with stone carvings in its outer and inner walls, frescoes from the mid-11th century, and medieval Georgian inscriptions in asomtavruli and nuskhuri scripts. The church was almost completely destroyed in the Racha earthquake of 1991 and rebuilt in 2009. Another church in the area is Bugeuli Georgian Orhtodox Church, a 14th-15th century small single-nave church that keeps some fresco paintings.
  • Driving a bit further into the south, 15 km from Ambrolauri, it can be found a monument that is placed in UNESCO World Heritage Tentative list, Nikortsminda Cathedral. This Georgian Orthodox church in cross-in-square style that was built in 1010-1014 during the reign of Bagrat III of Georgia and repaired by the King Bagrat III of Imereti in 1534. Its highlight are its massive dome and windows (decorated with ornamentated architraves) and the impressing frescoes inside the temple, from the 17th century, that reflect the mastery of the late-Medieval Georgian ecclesiastic art. Nikortsminda has one of the most beautiful decorations from all Georgian churches and cathedrals because several different styles can be seen among them, outstanding because of the richness of the selection of motifs and the manner of execution. Next to the cathedral a three-storied bell-tower was built in the second half of the 19th century. Close to this site is located Sakinule Cave, a natural cave full of stalactites, stalagmites, and columns.
  • Just in the border between Racha and Imereti, the visitor can find the beautiful Shaori Reservoir, one of the most attractive places in Racha. The reservoir formed by the damming of Shaori river is surrounded by mixed deciduous trees provides an area with rich tourism potential. Various activities can be arranged here like fishing or hiking. It's the most stunning in autumn and spring. In this area some easy trails can be taken, such as Zeda Tlughi-Mount Satsalike Trail (20.6 km).
Frescoes in Nikortsminda Cathedral
Ambrolauri Museum of Fine Arts

 
 
 
 
Barakoni Church
Racha is a very nice ethnographical region that has places that are worth some time. Not far from Ambrolauri it can be visited Barakoni Georgian Orthodox Church, a domed cruciform church comissioned in 1753 by the eristavi Rostom of Racha to the architect Avtandil Shulavreli. It was adorned with rich ornamentation and is one of the last important monuments in the tradition of medieval Georgian architecture.
Close to it are the Ruins of Mindatsikhe Fortress, that date back to the 11th century. A typical kind of red wine in Racha is name after it, Barakoni wine. Continuing east it can be found by river Rione the cultural capital of Racha, the town of Oni (ონი in Georgian) with its 2,656 inhabitants.
Oni Synagogue
This town with a small Ossetian community used to have a large community of Georgian Jews (most of them emigrated to Israel after the fall of the USSR) and that is the reason why here it can be found the magnificent Oni Synagogue, eclectic style synagogue built in 1895 that is the oldest functioning synagogue in Georgia. It was severely damaged during the 1991 Racha earthquake, restored 4 years later (although the number of Jews was only of 16 in 2015).  To learn a bit more about the history of the town, one can visit Oni Local Museum (10-17 Tue-Sun;
2₾/ 1  adults/ students and kids), a small museum with archaeological and religious items collection, together with ethnographic objects, manuscripts and paintings of Georgian 20th century well-known artists.
Udziro Lake
Apart from these two sites, Oni is popular among tourists attracted to its natural beauty and its remote setting. It's specially impressing Udziro Lake, from where having great views on the river Chanchakhi valley,
Katitsveri Mountain and on the Caucasus Mountains, that can be reached if the visitor decides to take the round Udziro Lake Trail (18.9 km). Other possibilities of taking nice hikes are: Chiora-Notsara Valley Route (23.3 km), a great round-hike that isn't that difficult and offers great 360° views of surrounding mountains; Buba Glacier Trail (7.8 km), a trail that provides great views of the mountains and Buba Glacier; and Buba and Tbilisa Glaciers Route (31.6 km), a round hike that gets closer to Buba Glacier and to Tbilisa Glacier. But, without doubts, the best possible choice to enjoy the western Caucasus mountains in Georgia between Svaneti and Racha is taking Svaneti-Racha Trekking (56.3 km).
 
Mount Khvamli
The visitor may also want to explore the ethnographic region Lechkhumi. The cultural capital of this area is Tsageri (ცაგერი in Georgian), a small town with 1,320 people by river Tskhenistsqali. Here are the ruins of the medieval fortress of Muris-Tsikhe, that is attributed to be the place of exile and death of the theologian Maximus the Confessor. There still exits a monastery dedicated to him, Tsageri Monastery, that is the residence of the Georgian Orthodox bishop of Tsageri and Lentekhi. Here there are also many possibilities of enjoying nature, taking beautiful hikes such as Akhalchala Reserve Route (36.4 km), a nice route around Akhalchala Reserve, a reserve that is one of the last great secrets of the Georgian mountains. Just in the border with Imereti it can be enjoyed Mount Khvamli (2002 m high), a massif covered by mixed forests perforated by numerous sinkholes and caves and whose history is quite linked to cronicles in medieval Georgia. To get closer to this nature, it's advisable to take Tvishi-Mount Khvamli-Okureshi Route (28.3 km), a moderate 2-day hike that explores the mountain and Tekenteri Cave too. As for the highlights of Zvemo Svaneti they are mostly around its main town, Lentekhi (ლენტეხი in Georgian), 947 inhabitants. Here it can be enjoyed alpinism and there are some trails that are worth to be done. One of them is Lentekhi-Matskhvarishi Route (42.1 km), a 3-days difficult hike that connects Upper and Lower Svaneti

Where can I eat in Ambrolauri?

  Ambrolauri doesn't have many places to eat so it's better to try somewhere where locals may go or buying food at the supermarket.

 
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