Saturday 21 September 2019

Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park

Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park (also know as Parque Nacional das Illas Atlánticas or Parque Nacional de las Islas Atlánticas) is a 84.8 km² national park located on the western coast of Galicia. This National Park is the only one in Galicia and the 10th most visited in Spain. Its important isn't only for the awesome landscapes but also for its flora and fauna diversity, with more than 200 different species of seaweed, seabirds and mollusca. Currently it isn't inhabited (but Ons island) but has some campsites to spend the night.

How do I arrive to Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park?

 The only way to reach the National Park is by boat.
  • Boat: there are 4-5 daily boats from Vigo, Baiona and Cangas to Cíes Islands (aprox. 1 hour). There are also ferries to Ons island from Sanxenxo, Portonovo, Pontevedra and Bueu (aprox. 45 minutes), daily during summer and just on weekends the rest of the year. It's very important booking on advance the ferry. Sálvora can be reached from Bueu and O Grove and Cortegada from Vilagarcía de Arousa
 Once in the park the one and only way of moving is walking (Cortegada Island can sometimes be accesible from Vilagarcía de Arousa during low tide).

History

The islands were already inhabited during Paleolithic and have also some castros, but the first mention to the islands is done by the Roman historian Pliny the Elder and Pliny the Younger. According to some Roman legends Julius Caesar sheltered here after a defeat in his fight against Lusitans. The islands were given by king Alfonso II to the Cathedral Chapter of Santiago in the year 899. During Middle Ages Cortegada island had a monastery (that was in use till the 19th century) and Sálvora was used as shelter by Muslim troops when they tried to attack mainland. Cíes islands were also settled as base for armies that attacked Vigo, like Francis Drake's one. Sálvora was the home of the first salting factory in Spain, O Almacen, Cortegada island was given to king Alfonso XIII for him to build his summer residence here, but he chose building Palacio de la Magdalena, in Santader. The National Park was established in 2002 and it the future some more islands may be added, like Tambo island or Sisargas islands.
 

What can I visit in Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park?

These are many things to do in this National Park, explained now according to the island where they are:     
  • Cíes Islands: archipielago compounded of the islands of Faro, Monteagudo and San Martiño (unacessible). The two first islands are connected by a sandsplit and currently is inhabited, although in summer thousands of people arrive here to enjoy its beauty, specially Rodas Beach (considered by some the best beach in the world). There are at least 4 routes within the island.
    • Mount Faro Trail (8.3 km): this path is the most popular among tourists. The routes zigzags till reaching Mount Faro (174 m), where having excellent views of the San Martiño island and the cliffs, and reaches Cíes Lighthouse.
    • Porta Lighthouse Trail (5.5 km): route that gets into the southern part of the island till arriving to the small Porta Lighthouse. It gets through the largest colony of yellow-legged gulls in the world, where there are more than 15,000 of these birds. It's also close to calm Viños Beach.
    • Alto do Príncipe Trail (3 km): trail that gets into the western part of the island, arriving to Alto do Príncipe Viewpoint, that has great views of the islands' cliffs.
    • Monteagudo Trail (5.6 km): route that goes to the north of the island through a beautiful eucalyptus forest till Monteagudo Lighthouse, going close to Figueiras Beach. Once arrived to the end of the route birdwatchers can enjoy many shags that are settled here.
  • Ons Island: 5.6 km long island with a tiny village, beaches and cliffs, ruins and rich bird life. Currently it's inhabited by 70 people, most of them living in O Curro (Curro in Spanish). It's a bit less touristic than Cíes Islands but less attractive too. There are at least 4 routes within the island.
    • South Ons Trail (6.4 km): round path that gets into the southern part of the island, visiting some nice beaches such as Area dos Cans Beach and Canexol Beach. It reaches O Buraco do Inferno and Fedorentos Viewpoint, with astonishing views. It starts at O Curro where its old church, hórreos and school can be seen.
    • North Ons Trail (7.6 km): largest route in the island that reaches the north and west part of the island. One of its highlights is Punta Centulo Viewpoint, not only for its landscape but also shags colonies (the access to the this point is forbidden till the end of July because of that). It goes next to nudist Melide Beach.
    • Ons Lighthouse Trail (3.6 km): trail that explores the center of the island and gets to Ons Lighthouse (from 1926), one of the largest in Spain.
    • Ons Castle Ruins Trail (1.3 km): shortest trail in the island that gets to Ons Castle Ruins, remains from the Peninsular War. It has nice views too.
  • Sálvora: this 2 km long island is the less known and visited in the National Park. It has two trails: a Sálvora Lighthouse Trail (1.2 km), a round trip that reaches Sálvora Lighthouse; and the Aldea Trail (1.3 km), a short hike to Sálvora (abandoned village that can just be visited in a guided tour). At wonderful Almacén Beach (beach that has the statue of a mermaid linked to a local legend) there's the Sálvora Drying and Salting Fish Factory, a pazo-like factory that made the island have 70 inhabitants on its better days. The island has cliffs on its coast and some other beautiful beaches like Dos Bois Beach.
  • Cortegada: 3.2 km long island just 200 m far from the nearest part of land. It also has two trails, both of them round: a trail that allows to discover the island's forest, Cortegada Inner Trail (2.3 km) and one on its perimeter with views to ría de Arousa, Cortegada Perimeter Trail (3 km). This island has the largest laurel forest in Europe (the Laurel Forest of Cortegada), the abandoned village of Cortegada and Cortegada Shrine.
Rodas Beach at Cíes Islands
Ons Island

Where can I eat in Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park?

This National Park doesn't have a large culinary offer; in fact it has few restaurants, just in Ons island and Cíes Islands. The best one placed in Cíes Islands is Serafín () and the best one in Ons island is Casa Checho (O Curro 10).

Friday 20 September 2019

Cambados

Cambados is a 15,510 inhabitants ria-side town, in the middle of Rías Baixas, in the western part of Galicia, Spain. It's also the capital city of albariño, the most popular Galician wine. Currently it's the fusion of three medieval towns: Fefiñáns, Cambados and Castrelo. It was named European City of Wine in 2017.

How do I arrive to Cambados?

  Cambados isn't bad comunicated because of the importance of tourism and the fact that is located between Pontevedra and Santiago de Compostela. 
  • Bus: . There are 2-3 buses to O Grove from Santiago de Compostela (aprox. 2 hours 15 minutes) via Cambados (aprox. 30 minutes), Vilagarcía de Arousa (aprox. 1 hour) and Padrón (aprox. 1 hour 15 minutes) and 4-6 buses from Pontevedra (aprox. 1 hour 15 minutes) via Sanxenxo (aprox. 30 minutes). There are buses from Vilagarcía de Arousa (aprox. 30 minutes) and two daily buses from Pontevedra (aprox. 1 hour 15 minutes).
  • Car: in case you decide renting a car, Cambados is 30 minutes from O Grove, Combarro and Pontevedra, 40 minutes from Padrón, 45 minutes from Vigo, 1 hour from Santiago de Compostela and from Noia.

History

The area around Cambados was already inhabited during Phoenici exploration of the Galician coast and under Roman domination. After the kingdom of the Suebi was conquered by the Visigoths, the king Egica made his son Wittiza governor of Galicia, time in which he gave a lot of privileges to Cambados. When the Muslims attacked the Iberian Peninsula Abd al-Aziz attacked Cambados, Tui, Ourense and Lugo, but Fruela I of Asturias (son of Alfonso I of Asturias) beat them near Cambados. The town was formed by San Tomé do Mar and Santa Mariña parishes. As many other places in the Galician coast during the 9th and 10th centuries it was attacked by Normans. Cambados also took part in the Irmandiños war but the Catholic Monarchs gave the town privileges for its help during the conquer of Granada. The inhabitants of Cambados organised a guerrilla during the Peninsular War and waged guerrilla warfare Soult and Ney's armies. The birth of the town of Cambados with its current name occured in 1820.

What can I visit in Cambados?

Cambados is a town with a nice Old Town and a lot of wineries that can be visited and enjoyed. Some of its main streets are around praza de Fefiñáns. St. Tomé District, in the south of the town, is a traditional fishery quartier where enjoying traditional life and, during low tide, watch shellfish catchers work.
These are Cambados' main attractions:
  • Pazo de Fefiñáns (three daily guided tours; 7/ 10  guided tour/ tour plus wine tasting): pazo built in 1583 by Gonzalo de Valladares y Sarmiento, viscount of Fefiñáns and major of La Paz (Bolivia). It was modified in the 18th century and shows a combination of Renaissance and Baroque and hosts the oldest winery in the region. The visit shows the palace, the installations of the winery and its gardens.
  • St. Bieito de Fefiñans Church: 17th century church built over the ruins of a Romanesque chapel by Gonzalo de Valladares, with Churrigueresque style towers.
  • St. Margarita Chapel: 11th century chapel with a beautiful cruzeiro on its entrance.
  • St. Saduniño Tower: ruins of a 12th century defensive tower destroyed during Irmandiño revolts.
  • Etnographic and Wine Museum (10-14 Tue-Thu, 10-14 and 16-19 Fri-Sat; 1/ free  adults/ kids under 11): museum about the local relationship with wine and the characteristics of Rías Baixas Denominación de Origen (protected designation of origin), considered the main wine museum in Galicia. It's very useful for enologists and wine lovers.
  • St. Mariña Church: 16th century Galician Gothic style church in ruins that preserves its chorus and its serie of arches of its vault. It's surrounded by geraniums, hydrangeas and tombs, as the local cemetery is here.
  • There are activites that allow to understand the work of shellfish catchers (usually done by women) organised by Guimatur (5€).
  • Going 8 km east from Cambados there's Pazo Quinteiro da Cruz (8/ 10  guided tour of its gardens/ tour plus wine tasting), in the municipality of Ribadumia. This beautiful 18th century stone palace with a nice English garden full of camellias, a big hórreo, a private chapel and a winery. It has been used as set for films many times.
  • Thirteen km east it can be found St. María da Armenteira Monastery (9-21), 12th-13th century monastery and church in pure Cistercian style (only the façade and the cloisters are from the 18th century). Among its highlights are it's beautiful rose window, the Romanesque portico with 12 columns and the cloister. From here starts a relaxing trail called Ruta da Pedra e da Agua (6.8 km one-way).
Ruins of St. Mariña Church
Pazo de Fefiáns

Carreirón Natural Park
Around Cambados there are many things to do but you have to choose if going north or south. If you choose exploring the northern part it can be found the beautiful A Illa de Arousa (Isla de Arosa in Spanish), a municipality of 4,958 inhabitants located in Arousa island (which is conected with dry land by a bridge). The island has many nice beaches like Bao Beach, Camaxe Beach or Salinas beach, beautiful Punta Cabalo Lighthouse and in the southern part of Arousa island it can be found Carreirón Natural Park, a small pine wood reserve with some paths to tranquil coves and wetlands. In the beginning of September it takes places Octopus Festival, a good occasion In case you choose going to the south it can be found the town of O Grove (El Grove in Spanish), a 10,700 inhabitants municipality located in the peninsula with the same name. Some of the things to do here are the following ones: O Grove Aquarium (10:30-21 from Jul to Sep; 10-18 Mon-Fri and 10:30-19:30 Sat-Sun from Oct to Jun; 15/ 12/ 10/ free  adults/ retiree and students/ kids from 4 to 14 years old/ kids under 4), small and educational aquarium with fish, crustaceans and cephalopods from the region; Fishing and Salting Interpretation Center (10:30-13:30 Tue-Sun; 2/ 1  adults/ kids), salting factory founded in 1790 that is preserved just the way it was that shows objects related to traditional fishing, salting and canning.
A Toxa chapel
The peninsula has many beautiful fine sand beaches such as the long A Lanzada Beach; the beaches in the southern part of the peninsula are Area da Cruz beach, Raeiros beach and Paxareiro beach but in the northern part the beaches are unspoilt, for example As Pipas Beach, Mexilloeira Beach, Area Grande Beach or O Carreiro Beach; western beaches are also calm, like Castiñeira Beach, Barreiro Beach, Aguieira Beach or Con de Corva Beach. There's a trail called Os Lagarteiros (2 km) with some nice viewpoints of the peninsula on its way. Conected with O Grove is A Toxa island, island famous for its hydrothermal waters (that made it be a luxurous resort in the 20th century) and A Toxa chapel, a chapel covered with scallop shells.

Where can I eat in Cambados?

In Cambados the best idea is trying its wine, albariño. There are many wineries such as and restaurants like A Casa da Leña (Rúa Rodas 1), Casa Pintos (Rúa Montino de Arriba 14) and O Rincón do tio Paco (Praza Fefiñáns 13) and, for a higher prices, the Galician restaurants María José (Rúa San Gregoria 14) and Yayo Daporta (Rúa Hospital 7). Some places to try Cambados' wines are around praza Fefiñáns for example, Pub Brothers (Praza Alfredo Brañas), and some good ideas to buy wines like pazo A Capitana ()
O Grove is like Mecca for seafood lovers: it isn't cheap but it can't be fresher. Some ideas to enjoy seafood with a low-medium price are the restaurants Balcón de Floreano (Praza Darriba 11), Taberna Lavandeiro (Rúa Santo Antonio 2) or A Taberna de Temperan (Cacheiras 24). For a higher price the recommendations can be the shellfish bars Beiramar (Avenida de Beiramar 30) and A Solaina (Rúa do Cruceiro 8).
In A Illa de Arousa there are some cheap restaurants where eating like A Salga (Rúa O Naval 7) and A Meca (Paseo O Cantiño 12).

 
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