Sunday, 15 September 2019

Viveiro

Viveiro (Vivero in Spanish) is a 15,510 inhabitants town located in the northwestern part of the province of Lugo, in the north of Galicia and Spain, in the ria de Viveiro (that belongs to Rías Altas). It's the third largest municipality in the province and a wide cultural offer that goes from Semana Santa to Rapa das Bestas in Candaoso or Romería de Naseiro. It's also home of Resurrection Fest, a heavy metal and punk festival.
 

How do I arrive to Viveiro?

  Viveiro isn't bad comunicated, despite its geographic position, because of the importance of tourism and the fact that is located between other bigger cities. 
  • Train: Viveiro is connected with Ortigueira (aprox. 40 minutes), Ribadeo (aprox. 1 hour), Ferrol (aprox. 2 hours) and Oviedo (aprox. 5 hours) by FEVE, with more than 3 daily trains.
  • Bus: there are buses to Viveiro from Ferrol (aprox. 1 hour 40 minutes), Lugo (aprox. 2 hours), A Coruña (aprox. 2 hours 15 minutes) and from Ribadeo.
  • Car: in case you decide renting a car, Viveiro is 40 minutes from Ortigueira, 1 hour from Mondoñedo and Ribadeo, 1 hour 10 minutes from Ferrol, 1 hour 15 minutes far from Lugo and 1.5 hours journey from A Coruña.

History

There have been found archaeological ruins and objects that make experts think that the area was inhabited during Roman times, with currenty Viveiro corresponding to Flavia Lambris. When the Arabs reached the Iberian Peninsula it was destroyed but Pelagius of Asturias gave Viveiro privileges for its help during Reconquista. From the 12th century  onwards it starts developing just the way Viveiro is nowadays. During the Irmandiña Wars Viveiro's mayor, Pero Pardo de Cela, was expelled from the town. The 16th century was the period of highest development of Viveiro as a town and harbour. In the 19th century many salting plants start to been set up in Viveiro and had an important cultural life, thanks to the minister and writer Nicomedes Pastor Díaz. During Primo de Rivera's dictatorship the area suffered some repression but peace came back with the Second Spanish Republic (unlike in other places, religious expressions weren't attacked).

What can I visit in Viveiro?

Viveiro is a town whose historic quartier is well-preserved where time seems to be frozen.
These are Viveiro's main attractions:
  • Charles V's Gate: former entrance gate to Viveiro built in Spanish Renaissance style in 1548. It was used to protect the Old Town from French troops during the Peninsula War.
  • The town has other gates that date back to the 13th century: Valado Gate and Santo Cristo Gate.
  • St. Maria do Campo Church (11:30-13:30 and 18:30-20; free): oldest and purest Romanesque style church in Galicia, built in the 12th century. Inside there's an interesting 14th century silver processional cross.
  • St. Francisco Church (11:30-13:30 and 18:30-20; free): church of a former Franciscan convent from the 13th century, rebuilt in Galician Gothic style. It has a beautiful apse and large and narrow windows.
  • St. Roque Mount: mount 3 km far from the town center that has a great panoramic view of the sea and the bay.
  • Nuestra Señora de Valdeflores Monastery: 15th century monastery that was inhabited by nuns till 2018. It has a nice Gothic church within the monastery
  • Viveiro has some very nice beaches with white sand and dunes like Da Area Beach (where some Phoenician remains were found), Esteiro Beach and Covas Beach. They are windy beaches so surf and windsurf can be practised there.
  • Going 8 km south from Viveiro there's Chavín Eucalyptus Forest, one of the oldest eucalyptus forests in Galicia and in Europe. There are many centenarian trees like O Avó, the largest eucalyptus in Europe.
Covas Beach
St. Maria do Campo Church
Best Bank of the World and Loiba Cliffs
Going 20 km west there's Bares Peninsula, compouned of the parishes of O Barqueiro (El Barquero in Spanish) and Porto de Bares (Puerto de Bares in Spanish), a marvellously scenic spot in Galicia with beautiful walking trails, beaches and cliffs. In Punta da Estaca de Bares, the most northernly point in Spain, there are the wonderful Loiba Cliffs, Picón Beach and a bench located on the top of the cliffs named Best Bank of the World. Continuing the way by the coast 17 km there's Ortigueira, a 5,966 inhabitants town with a small Old Town and nice beaches. But the most important thing here is Ortigueira's Festival of Celtic World, a very popular festival that draws more than 100,000 people attracted by its concerts, workshops and conferences. Before reaching Ferrol it can be found the parish of Santo André de Teixido (San Andrés de Teixido in Spanish) where many people go on pilgrimage to visit its church, a marine-style Gothic temple. It's located in one of the biggest cliffs in Europe.

Where can I eat in Viveiro?

In Viveiro there isn't a very wide offer to eat but a choice to eat local are O Recuncho (Rúa Pastor Díaz 55) and Asador La Quinta (Rúa Pastor Díaz 66). Other ideas can be the restaurants Pazo da Trave (Estrada do Galdo 0), Nito (Estrada da Area 1)
In our way to Ferrol we can also find some nice places to eat like the restaurants La Marina (Avenida Muelle 7) and O Forno (Porto do Barqueiro 1) in O Porto do Barqueiro; La Marina (Rúa Marina de Guerra 12), in Porto de Bares.

 
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