Ohrid

St. Jovan Kaneo Church and Lake Ohrid

Ohrid (Охрид in Macedonian, Ohri in Albanian) is a 42,033 inhabitants city (8th largest in North Macedonia) by lake Ohrid, in the southwestern part of North Macedonia. It's the nicest and most touristic place in the whole country and it's sometimes nicknamed as the Jerusalem of the Balkans. Ohrid and Lake Ohrid were accepted as Cultural and Natural World Heritage Sites by UNESCO in 1979 and 1980. It's mostly inhabited by Macedonians (around 80%) with an important Albanian community (around 10%) and a smaller Turkish one.

How do I arrive to Ohrid?

  Ohrid has many different ways to arrive for being the most touristic point in North Macedonia. 

• Plane: there are many international flights to Ohrid International Airport, the 2nd most important one in North Macedonia. It's 10 km north from the center of the city and to go from the airport to the city it can only be done with taxis (500 MKD).
• Boat: there are boats from Ohrid to Pogradec in Albania.
• Bus: it's the best way to move along Western Balkans and the main bus station in Ohrid is Ohrid Avtobuska Stanica [Автобуска Станица Охрид], 2 km far from the center. There are frequent buses to other locations in North Macedonia such as Struga, Bitola or Skopje (aprox. 3.5 hours). Buses also connect Ohrid with neighbouring destinations like Tirana, Durrës and Vlorë in Albania. There are buses eveyr hour from Struga to Vevčani.
• Car: if you rented a car in Ohrid you can reach many places in North Macedonia like Struga (aprox. 20 minutes), Vevčani (aprox. 30 minutes); Trpejca, Ljubaništa or St. Naum in Galičica National Park, Bitola (aprox. 1 hour 10 minutes), Prilep (aprox. 1 hour 40 minutes), Mavrovo National Park (aprox. 1 hour 45 minutes), Pelister National Park and Tetovo (aprox. 2 hours) or Skopje (aprox. 2 hours 30 minutes). It can also be easy to reach other countries like Albania with cities like Korçë (aprox. 1 hours 35 minutes) or Tirana (aprox. 2 hours 20 minutes).

Once in Ohrid it's highly recommended to move walking because it isn't too large to need public transportation. In case of needing it, the best ways to move are buses and taxis.

History

The earliest inhabitants of Lake Ohrid region were the Enchele (Illyrian tribe) and the Dassaretae (ancient Greek tribe) and Ohrid already existed as a town as early as of king Phillip II of Macedon's times. During the Roman conquests the Dassaretae and the ancient Greek city of Lychnidos were noted and in Roman times it was located along the Via Egnatia (between Dyrrachion and Byzantium). The area adopted Christianity early and the bishops from Lychnidos participated in multiple ecumenical councils. South Slavs began to arrive in the area during the 6th century AD, being colonized by the Slavic tribe of the Berziti. Bulgaria conquered the city around 840 and here it was established the Ohrid Literary School (886) by Clement of Ohrid, becoming one of the two major cultural centres of the First Bulgarian Empire. Ohrid was the capital and stronghold of the Bulgarian Empire between 990 and 1015 and the seat of the Bulgarian Patriarchate too. The Byzantine reconquest of the city in 1018 by Basil II. As an episcopal city, Ohrid was a cultural center of great importance for the Balkans. Bohemond, leading a Norman army from southern Italy, took the city in 1083 and Byzantines regained it in 1085. In the 13th and 14th century the city changed hands between the Despotate of Epirus, the Bulgarian, the Byzantine and the Serbian Empires, as well as local Albanian rulers. In 1395 the Ottomans under Bayezid I captured the city which became the seat of the newly established Sanjak of Ohrid. The Christian population declined during the first centuries of Ottoman rule until the 18th century when Ohrid emerged as an important trade center on a major trade route. In the 19th century the region of Ohrid became part of the Pashalik of Scutari, ruled by the Bushati family, but after a plebiscite (1874) it voted to join the Bulgarian Exarchate. The city remained under Ottoman rule until 1912, when the Serbian army took control of the city during the First Balkan War (making it the capital of Ohrid district). In 1913 local Albanian and pro-Bulgarian VMRO leaders rebelled against the Kingdom of Serbia, being occupied by Kingdom of Bulgaria during World War I. During Kingdom of Yugoslavia, Ohrid was at first an independent district, then part of Bitola Oblast and from 1929, Ohrid was part of the Vardar Banovina. It was occupied again by Bulgaria between 1941 and 1944 during World War II. After it, Ohrid was part of SFR Yugoslavia  and since 1991 the town is part of the Republic of Macedonia. On 20 November 1993, Avioimpex Flight 110 crashed near Ohrid (deadliest aviation disaster to occur in North Macedonia), killing all 116 people on board.

Ohrid's top 7

If you have little time or you just don't want to visit all Ohrid, here's a list of the 7 things to do and places you can't miss in the city.

1. St. Jovan Kaneo Church.
2. St. Sofija Cathedral.
3. Ohrid promenade and urban beaches.
4. Icons Gallery.
5. Ohrid National Museum.
6. St. Bogorodica Perivleptos Church.
   
7. St. Bogorodica Bolnička and St. Nikola Bolnički Churches.

What can I visit in Ohrid?

 Ohrid is the main destination of North Macedonia because of the city itself, Lake Ohrid and the surrounding area. The city of Ohrid isn't very large so it can be discovered easily. It's very pleasant to walk over the districts of Kaneo and Mesokastro; some of the streets where the visitor can enjoy traditional architecture are along Car Samoil and Ilindenska. One of the most important festivals in Ohrid is Ohrid's Summer Festival (end of July), one of the major cultural events in North Macedonia with classical music concerts, opera, threater or dance all over Ohrid.

These are Ohrid's main attractions:

Robev Family House

• Ohrid National Museum (9-13 and 18-22 Tue-Sun from May to Sep; 9-15 Tue-Sun from Oct to Apr; 100 MKD/ 50 MKD  adults/ students and kids): museum located in a 19th century Ottoman house, Robev Family House, that belonged to important merchants Robev family. It has an exhibition on archaeological findings from Roman times, like a 5th century gold mask found in Trebeništa or wooden carvings, and it has an art gallery too. In front of the main building it's located the House of Urania, with ethnographic exhibitions.
• National Workshop For Handmade Paper Ljupcho Panevski (8:30-21 Mon-Sat, 9-16 Sun; free): museum that shows how the process of making paper is and sells hand made products based on it. The worskshop has one of the only two copies of Gutenberg's printing press in the world.

  

  Frescoes at St. Nikola Bolnički Church
  

• St. Bogorodica Bolnička and St. Nikola Bolnički Macedonian Orthodox Churches (9-13; 50 MKD): two small 14th century churches built with dormitories around them which were used as quarantine stations for visitors of the city. The roof was influenced by Adriatic architecture and its frescoes are in decent condition (including interesting portraits of some royals, St Nicholas and of an Ohrid archbishop) although St. Bororodica Bolnička's frescoes are in poorer condition. Under the Ottoman control they were turned into hospitals.

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  Ali Pasha Mosque

  St. Kliment Macedonian Orthodox Church (free): small and well-hidden 14th century church with well-preserved frescoes. Here were hidden the bones of St. Clement of Ohrid after the Ottomans took the city and converted St. Kliment i Pantelejmon church to a mosque. The church is locked and the key should be asked to the neighbouring houses.
• Ali Pasha Mosque: 15th century Ottoman mosque with a simple design: a large dome and three smaller ones above the porch. It originally had at least one minaret but no longer has one.
• Ohrid Old Bazaar: the city wasn't an important trade center so its bazaar is quite small, consisting in Sveti Kliment Ohridski. In the main square of it, Ploštad Sveti Kliment Ohridski, it can be found a 1,000 years old tree, Chinar Tree.
• Halveti Hayati Tekke: tekke that dates back to 1590 that belonged to the Halvet dervish order. Its shape is square, has one minaret and hosts the mausoleum of Muhammad Hayati, founder of this dervish order, in the yard of the complex.
• St. Bogorodica Kamensko Macedonian Orthodox Church: 17th century church, most of the present structure is from 1832, with a single dome and impressive frescoes.
• Ohrid Clock Tower: 12 m high stone clock tower built in 1726. The tower isn't as prominent as others such as Bitola, Prilep or Skopje ones.
• St. Bogorodica Čelnička Macedonian Orthodox Church: 14th century church notable for probably being the only two-nave church in North Macedonia. Its oldest frescoes date from the 14th century but it was mostly repainted in the 19th century by notable artists from Debar.



St. Bogorodica Perivleptos Church


• St. Bogorodica Perivleptos Macedonian Orthodox Church (9-16; 100 MKD): 13th century Byzantine church promoted by the son-in-law of Byzantine Emperor Andronicus II in 1295. The church was vivid frescoes painted by Mihail and Eutychius, whose work shows that styles adopted in the Renaissance were already current in Byzantine art. Important frescoes include the detailed portraits of St Clement and Constantine Kavasila (former Archbishop of Ohrid), the Lamentation of Christ, Prayer on the Olive Mountain or the Death of the Virgin Mary. From here there are also great views of Lake Ohrid.

  

  Icons Gallery

• Icons Gallery (10-14 and 18-21 Tue-Sun; 100 MKD): small museum that displays an impressing collection of Macedonian religious icons that date back to the 13th to 18th centuries. It's considered the 2nd most important collection of icons in the world (after Moscow's one). 
• St. Konstantin and Elena Macedonian Orthodox Church: 15th century small church built in 1477. It has a single nave and the whole interior is painted with frescoes.
• St. Dimitrij Macedonian Orthodox Church: 14th century three-nave church which has high quality frescoes.



Ohrid Ancient Threater

• Ohrid Ancient Threater (free): Greek threater built in 200 BC, the only Hellenistic theatre remaining in North Macedonia. It was discovered by accident in the 1980s and today it works again as a theatre (used during Ohrid's Summer Festival). The theatre has a great open view of Lake Ohrid. 
• St. Vrači Kuzman i Damjan Macedonian Orthodox Church: 14th century small church with great frescoes and a wooden iconostasis. It's icon Madonna Episkepis is depicted on the 1,000 MKD banknote. 
• St. Nikola Gerakomija Macedonian Orthodox Church: church that was completed in 1860 with frescoes done by noted artist Dičo Krstev.



St. Sofija Cathedral

• St. Sofija Macedonian Orthodox Cathedral (9-19; 100 MKD/ 30 MKD  adults/ students and kids): 11th century cathedral church, largest church in the city and seat of the Ohrid Archbishopric. The interior contains a significant collection of preserved 11th century frescoes, depicting the Old Testament, a procession of angels bowing to the Virgin Mary, the 40 martyrs or portraits of Patriarchs from Constantinople, Jerusalem and Antioch, archbishops from Ohrid and Roman Popes. The façace was built in 1317 (under Archbishop Gregory) and the side porch was added when it was turned into a mosque by the Turks.
• Plaošnik: archaeological site, part of the Old City Park, where it can be found many archaeological remains from different periods. One of the main ones is an early Christian church (5th century) with a four-leaf shape, very typical from Syrian and Mesopotamian churches. There is also a small baptistry to the right with a four leafed shape with some excellent mosaics.

  

  St. Kliment i Pantelejmon Church
  

• St. Kliment i Pantelejmon Macedonian Orthodox Church: reconstruction of a former church where, in the 10th century, it was one of the first universities in Europe and the place where the Cyrillic alphabet was created. Original portions can be easily distinguished and some original tunnels are visible. St. Clement of Ohrid was the main promoter of this church (where his own grave was) and it became an important pilgrim site. After a rebellion under Ottoman rule it was tored down and a mosque was built here (its ruins are still visible). 
  

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  Samuel's Fortress

  St. Jovan Kaneo Macedonian Orthodox Church (9-18; 100 MKD): impressing 13th century church built on a cliff by Lake Ohrid. The Armenain influence is obvious on its architecture, with the zig-zag line of the roof of the dome, and it still keeps some of original frescoes are preserved in the back of the altarpiece. It's one of the most photogenic monuments in North Macedonia. 
• Samuel's Fortress (9-19 from May to Sep; 9-16 from Oct to Apr; 30 MKD): 10th century fortress buitl when Ohrid was capital of the First Bulgarian Empire under Tsar Samuel (upon older fortifications dating back to the 4th century). It provides the visitor of great views of the city of Ohrid, Lake Ohrid and the mountains.

  

  Labino beach

• Ajdar Pasha Mosque: early Ottoman mosque that is considered Ohrid's oldest, built in 1456. It features a pitched roof and a single minaret.
• Ohrid has several different natural beaches and each offers a unique beach experience. The further from the city center, the more scenic they will become Some of the most important ones are Labino beach (small, rocky but not crowded), Plaža beach or Potpeš beach.

 

St. Anastasij Church at  Kališta Monastery

Going 15 km north, still by lake Ohrid, it can be found the town of Struga (Струга in Macedonian, Strugë in Albanian), a 16,559 inhabitants town by Black Drin river with ethnically diverse population, mainly Macedonians and Albanian communities. It's known for being an important summer resort and it's nickname the City of Poetry because of its important poetry festival, Struga Poetry Evenings. Some of the things to do here are St. Ǵorǵi Macedonian Orthodox Church, 13th century church, famous for the Saint George icon (1267) that is considered among the most important in North Macedonia; visiting Dr. Nikola Nezlobinski Museum (9-18 Mon-Fri, 10-15 Sat-Sun from May to Sep), museum founded by this Russian doctor exiled after October Revolution with departments on biology, ethnology, archaeology (it has mosaic floors found on Christian sites in the villages of Oktisi and Radolišta), history and fine arts; or enjoying traditional architecture in places like Halveti Hayati Tekke or Brothers Miladinov Memorial House. Not far from here is located the village of Kališta (Калишта in Macedonian, Kalisht in Albanian), 1,463 people (mainly Albanians) small town that is popular because of Kališta Monastery, 14-18th centuries scenic lakeside monastery home to multiple churches, including two medieval cave churches. They contain significant fresco work and it can be visited an unique icon that depicts the Holy Mother with baby Jesus in black.

Vevčani Springs

Continuing 14 km to the border with Albania there's Vevčani (Вевчани in Macedonian, Veçani in Albanian), 2,343 people (ethnic Macedonians) small town in the mountains very popular for its springs and its 19th century rural architecture, such as St. Nikola Macedonian Orthodox Church. Its people speaks an unique dialect of Macedonian and they "declared" an independent republic (just a bid to attract more tourism to Vevčani). Vevčani's houses are built by bondruk system and it's a pleasure to walk its streets and enjoy its traditional architecture. At Vevčani Springs (9-17; 20 MKD/ 10 MKD  adults/ kids) it can be enjoyed natural springs that appear in the middle of the forest, perfect for doing some walking and get in touch with nature. This town is also popular because of Vevčan's Carnival (13th of January), 15-century-long carnival.

What can I do and buy in Ohrid?

 Ohrid is not a very big city but its touristic importance makes it have an interesting cultural scene, mainly focused on Dom na Kulturata Grigor Prličev (Kej Makedonija 4) has a nice cultural offer focused on Macedonian traditional singing and dances.
Ohrid is one of the places in North Macedonia where traditional filigree are most important. One of the most important places to see and buy are the jewelry shop Marta Pejoska Atelier & Gallery [Џељо] (Tsar Samoil 52). There are two families, the Talevi and Filevi, that still make Ohrid pearl necklaces, earrings nad broaches.

Where can I eat in Ohrid?

Ohrid has many traditional dishes like ribna čorba, (traditional fish soup), makalo (appetizer made with garlic and yogurt), gjomleze (baked layered pancakes with diamond shape), Ohridski gevrek (traditional bakery product) or burek (typical Ottoman layered cake). Ohrid trout (Ohridska pastrmka) is a very traditional dish but it's  illegal to fish it because is in severe danger. Fresh products can be bought in Ohrid Green Market [Пазар] (Boulevard Turistichka) or in the supermarket Tinex [Тинекс] (Bulevar Makedonski Prosvetiteli). Some interesting places to eat in Ohrid are the pizza restaurant Via Sacra [Виа Сакра] (Tsar Samoil), fish restaurant Kaneo [Канео] (Kocho Racin 43) or the Macedonian traditional restaurants Čun [Чун] (Kosta Abraš 4), Antiko [Антико] (Tsar Samoil) and the barbacue bar Belvedere [Белведере] (Kej Makedonija). For a higher budget a good idea can be trying the Macedonian restaurant Sveta Sofija [Света Софија] (Tsar Samoil 88).
In case of visiting Vevčani it's a very good idea trying traditiona food at Kutmichevica [Кутмичевица].
Ohrid has some nice places to have a drink or a coffee such as the cafe Liquid (Kosta Abraš 17), the bars Jazz Inn [Јагода] (Kosta Abraš 74) or NOA Lounge Bar (Kosta Abraš 38) and the club Cuba Libre Night Club [Ноќен клуб] (Partizanska 2).

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