Hesse

Hesse (Hessen in German) is a 6.2 million people state in the western part of Germany. It's surrounded by Lower Saxony, North Rhine-Westphalia, Rhineland-Palatinate, Baden-Württemberg, Bavaria and Thuringia. The population have a mixed tradition of Lutheran Christianism (aprox. 40% of the population) and Catholic Christianism (around 25%). The official language is German (although some dialects related to German are spoken like Rhine Franconian) and in touristic places, English is widely spoken. In the sourthern part of the state there's an area known as Rhenish Hesse. The main city in terms of population is Frankfurt am Main, but the capital city of Hesse is Wiesbaden, with other important cities like Kassel, Darmstadt or Offenbach am Main.

What can I visit in the Hesse?

Here you have a list of places in the state of Hesse that are worth to be seen. Check them out and find out the ones you want to visit:


History

Celtic Prince 
of Glauberg
The Central Hessian region (around Wetzlar) was already settled in the Paleolithic Era, having recently been uncovered a 7000-year-old settlement from the Linear Pottery culture along the Lahn. Shards from the Bell Beaker culture have been found in southern Hesse from around 4,500 years ago. One of the main prehistoric monuments found in Hesse is Züschen tomb, a prehistoric burial monument dating to c. 3000 BC that belongs to the Late Neolithic Wartberg culture (considered one of the most important megalithic monuments in Central Europe). An early Celtic presence in what is now Hesse is indicated by a mid-5th-century BC La Tène-style burial uncovered at Glauberg, town that was a center of supra-regional importance and at this time, seat of an early Celtic prince. Then the region was later settled by the Germanic Chatti tribe around the 1st century BC, having driven out the Celts to the south. The Chatti was a tribe with origin in the upper Weser (Lower Saxony) that settled and lived in central and northern Hesse and southern Lower Saxony.The ancient Romans had a military camp in Dorlar and a civil settlement under construction in Waldgirmes (on the outskirts of Wetzlar), planned to be the seat of the provincial government for the occupied territories of the right bank of Germania. The settlement appears to have been abandoned by the Romans after the devastating defeat in the Battle of the Teutoburg Forest (9 AD). The Chatti were also involved in the Revolt of the Batavi in 69 AD.
From the early 7th century on, Hessia served as a buffer between areas dominated by the Saxons (north) and the Franks (south and east), occuping the northwestern part of the modern Hesse.
Büraburg
By the mid-7th century, the Franks had established themselves as overlords and built fortifications in various places. The Büraburg was one of the places the Franks fortified to resist the Saxon pressure (considered the largest man-made construction seen in Hessia for at least 700 years). Following Saxon incursions into Chattish territory in the 7th century, two gaue had been established: a Frankish one (comprising an area around Fritzlar and Kassel) and a Saxonian one. In the 9th century, the Saxon Hessengau also came under the rule of the Franconians.
When the Carolingian empire collapsed, Hesse was made part of one five stem duchies of East Francia and the medieval Kingdom of Germany emerging in the early 10th century, the Duchy of Franconia. In the 12th century Hessengau was passed to Thuringia and in the War of the Thuringian Succession (1247–1264), Hesse gained independence and became a Landgraviate within the Holy Roman Empire.
Philip I, Landgrave of Hesse
In 1246 Henry I of Hesse became the first Landgrave of Hesse and the founder of the House of Hesse, being raised to the status of prince by King Adolf of Germany in 1292. From 1308 to 1311, and again from 1458, the landgraviate was divided into Upper Hesse and Lower Hesse, re-unified under Landgrave William II in 1500. The Landgraviate rose to primary importance under his son Philip I, also called Philip the Magnanimous, who embraced Protestantism in 1526 and took steps to create a protective alliance of Protestant princes and powers against the Catholic emperor Charles V. When he died in 1567, Hesse was divided between his sons into Hesse-Kassel, Hesse-Marburg (whose line became extinct in 1604), Hesse-Rheinfels (whose line became extinct in 1583) and the Landgraviate of Hesse-Darmstadt. Hesse-Kassel and Hesse-Darmstadt were the two core states within the Hessian lands. In the late 16th century, Kassel adopted Calvinism while Darmstadt remained Lutheran, founding themselves on different sides of conflicts,
Hesse-Darmstadt (HD) and 
Hesse-Kassel (HK) in 1789
most notably in the disputes over Hesse-Marburg and in the Thirty Years' War (when Darmstadt fought on the side of the Emperor while Kassel sided with Sweden and France). In Hesse-Kassel the Landgrave Frederick II ruled as a benevolent despot, combining Enlightenment ideas with Christian values, cameralist plans for central control of the economy and a militaristic approach toward diplomacy. He loaned 19,000 soldiers in complete military formations to Great Britain to fight in North America during the American Revolutionary War (1776–1783). In 1736 the Landgraves of Hesse-Darmstadt inherited the estates of the extinct Counts of Hanau-Lichtenberg. Hesse-Darmstadt acquired Duchy of Westphalia in 1803, (formerly owned by the Archbishop of Cologne) and territories from the Archbishop of Mainz and the Bishop of Worms. The ruler of Hesse-Kassel was elevated to the status of Prince-Elector in 1803 but this remained without effect, as the Holy Roman Empire was disbanded in 1806.
Landgrave Louis X,
Grand Duke of Hesse 

When Napoleon dissoluted the Holy Roman Empire and the dispossession of his cousin (Elector William I of Hesse-Kassel), Landgrave Louis X joined the Napoleonic Confederation of the Rhine and took the title of Grand Duke of Hesse. At the Congress of Vienna, the Grand Duke was forced to cede Westphalia to Prussia, receiving a piece of territory from the left bank of the Rhine (including the important federal fortress at Mainz).
In the Austro-Prussian War of 1866, the Grand Duchy of Hesse fought on the side of Austria against Prussia but retained its autonomy in defeat (although the region around the town of Gießen was incorporated in the Norddeutscher Bund, a tight federation of German states established by Prussia in 1867) and lost the Duchy of Nassau, the Free City of Frankfurt and Hesse-Kassel (now part of the new Province of Hesse-Nassau of the Kingdom of Prussia).
Grand Duchy of Hesse 
in the German Empire
In 1871, after France's defeat in the Franco-Prussian War, the rest of the Grand Duchy joined the German Empire as a constituent state of the German Empire. The last Grand Duke, Ernst Ludwig, Grand Duke of Hesse was forced from his throne at the end of World War I and the state was renamed the People's State of Hesse (Volksstaat Hessen) while Hesse-Nassau became part of the Free State of Prussia until 1944. The parts of Hesse-Darmstadt on the western banks of the Rhine were occupied by French troops until 1930 under the terms of the Versailles. In 1929 the Principality of Waldeck was dissolved and incorporated into the province of Hesse-Nassau.  
Frankfurt destroyed in WW2
From 1944-45 as part of Nazi Germany, it was divided into the Prussian provinces of Kurhessen and Nassau. The main industrial centers of Hesse were destroyed in WW2, incluiding Frankfurt's old town (considered to be the largest and most important one in all Germany). From 1945-46 it was renamed Greater Hesse and was part of the US occupation zone in Germany meanwhile the Hessian territory west of the Rhine was again occupied by France, incorporating it into the newly founded state of Rhineland-Palatinate. From 1946 onwards, it was reorganized into the State of Hesse, a federal state of West Germany out of Hesse-Darmstadt and most of the former Prussian province of Hesse-Nassau. Hesse in the 1940s received more than a million displaced ethnic Germans and due to its proximity to the Inner German border, Hesse became an important location of NATO installations in the 1950s. The first elected minister president of Hesse was Christian Stock, followed by Georg-August Zinn (SPD), pursuing progressive policies with the so-called Großer Hessenplan. In 1968 the head of the House of Hesse-Kassel became the head of the entire House of Hesse due to the extinction of the House of Hesse-Darmstadt. In the 1974 elections CDU gained a relative majority but the Social Democrats continued to govern in a coalition with the FDP. Hesse was first governed by the CDU under Walter Wallmann during 1987-1991, replaced by a SPD-Greens coalition under Hans Eichel during 1991-1999. From 1999, Hesse was governed by the CDU under Roland Koch and Volker Bouffier. Frankfurt during the 1960s to 1990s developed into one of the major cities of West Germany.

Unforgettable experiences 

This places and experiences are a must if you want to discover and understand the state of Hesse. This is my top 7:
  1. Frankfurt am Main
    Frankfurt am Main: largest city in Hesse and the 5th largest city in Germany. Frankfurt is an alpha world city and a global hub for commerce, culture, education, tourism and transportation, considered to be the financial capital city of Germany and Europe; it's home of institutions like the Deustche Bundesbank, the European Central Bank (ECB) or Frankfurt Stock Exchange, as well as cultural institutions like Goethe University and some of the world's largest trade fairs (Frankfurter Messe). In recent years its Altstadt has been rebuilt, recovering one of the the nicest old towns in whole Germany after it was destroyed in WW2.
  2. Kassel: the 3rd largest city in Hesse and former capital of the state of Hesse-Kassel has many things to offer like many palaces and parks (despite having been destroyed during WW2),
    Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe in Kassel

    including     Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe (a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2013).     Kassel is a very multicultural city (home of the University of Kassel too) and a perfect starting point to visit the north of Hesse.
  3. Wiesbaden: the capital of the federal state of Hesse and its 2nd largest city, Wiesbaden is widely considered as one of the oldest spa towns in Europe. The city is full of Neoclassical style buildings (rebuilt after World War 2), is one of the richest in whole Germany and has an important cultural life too.
  4. Darmstadt: talking about Darmstadt is talking about Jugendstil architecture, a wonderful example of this style thanks to having been the capital of the Grand Duchy of Hesse.
    Darmstadt
    The city is also very related to scien    ce, having university TU Darmstadt or the headquarters of the European Space Operations Center. It's also the birthplace of Alexandra Feodorovna of Russia (wife of Nicholas II of Russia).
  5. Hanau: this city by the rivers Kinzig and Main is an important transport center as well as being a center of precious metal working with many goldsmiths and home to Heraeus (one of the largest family-owned companies in Germany). The city is known for being the birthplace of the Brothers Grimm (Jakob and Wilhelm Grimm) and Franciscus Sylvius. Hanau lost much of its architectural heritage in World War II.
  6. Rheingau: region in Hesse by river Rhine, very close to Wiesbaden,
    Rheingau
    that is     famous for its wineyards and Rheingau wines, especially the Rheingauer Riesling. The area is also full of old churches and castles, making it a very complete destination. Most of the places of this region is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site of Rhine Gorge since 2002.
  7. Marburg: nice small city in the valley of the river Lahn, known as an important university town because of the University of Marburg, the oldest Protestant-founded university in the world. It also has an important medieval heritage.

Planning your holidays

These are some possible routes you may do in Hesse to visit parts of it or discover it all. Hesse has many sightseeing points so you can choose your own route depending your time and what you want to visit. Here are some possible tours:

    a) 5 days tour

  This short journey in Hesse would be focused in Frankfurt am Main. Here you could stay a day and a half enjoying its constast, going from its rebuilt Altstadt to its skycrapers in the financial district. The other half of the 2nd day is a perfect moment to have a walk in Hanau, the birthplace of the Brothers Grimm. For the 3rd day it can be a great choice visiting the capital city of Hesse, Wiesbaden, and enjoying its history as spa town and its architecture. The following day, 4th one, could consist in going to Darmstadt, one of the capital cities of Jugendstil architecture and a city of science. The fith and last day can be spent visiting and discovering Kassel, the 3rd largest city in Hesse that is known because of a UNESCO World Heritage site, Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe, apart from having many palaces.

   b) 7 days tour

  This journey in Hesse would be focused in Frankfurt am Main. Here you could stay a day and a half enjoying its constast, going from its rebuilt Altstadt to its skycrapers in the financial district. The other half of the 2nd day is a perfect moment to have a walk in Hanau, the birthplace of the Brothers Grimm. For the 3rd day it can be a great choice visiting the capital city of Hesse, Wiesbaden, and enjoying its history as spa town and its architecture. For the 4th day it can be an interesting choice getting deeper into rural Germany by visiting the winery Rheingau region (known because of Rheingauer Riesling) that has an important heritage of castles and churches by river Rhine. The following day, 5th one, could consist in going to Darmstadt, one of the capital cities of Jugendstil architecture and a city of science. On the sixth day the visitor can stop at Marburg, a small city with the oldest Protestant-founded university in the world, University of Marburg. The 7th and last day can be spent visiting and discovering Kassel, the 3rd largest city in Hesse that is known because of a UNESCO World Heritage site, Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe, apart from having many palaces.

   c) 10 days tour

   This larger journey in Hesse would be focused in Frankfurt am Main, making many daytrips from here. Here you could stay a day and a half enjoying its constast, going from its rebuilt Altstadt to its skycrapers in the financial district. The other half of the 2nd day is a perfect moment to have a walk in Hanau, the birthplace of the Brothers Grimm. For the 3rd day it can be a great choice visiting the capital city of Hesse, Wiesbaden, and enjoying its history as spa town and its architecture. For the 4th day it can be an interesting choice getting deeper into rural Germany by visiting the winery Rheingau region (known because of Rheingauer Riesling) that has an important heritage of castles and churches by river Rhine. The following day, 5th one, could consist in going to Darmstadt, one of the capital cities of Jugendstil architecture and a city of science. Next, the sixth day, the visitor can go to Bensheim, a good place to begin the visit to a group of towns that keep its old Altstadt in a very good way, including the UNESCO World Heritage site of Lorsch Abbey. The 7th day can consist in visiting Limburg an der Lahn and its surrounding area, while on the 8th day it's a good idea to visit the Baroque heritage of Fulda. On the 9th day the visitor can stop at Marburg, a small city with the oldest Protestant-founded university in the world, University of Marburg. The 10th and last day can be spent visiting and discovering Kassel, the 3rd largest city in Hesse that is known because of a UNESCO World Heritage site, Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe, apart from having many palaces.
 

How can I arrive and move within Hesse?

  Hesse is well communicated with neightbouring states and other countries, mainly via Frankfurt. Frankfurt am Main is connected with most of the important destinations in the rest of Germany and in Europe. The best mean of transport to move in the country is the train (high frequency but a bit expensive) but buses are also a good one because of its price (although usually traffic jams make journeys longer).
  • Train map of Hesse
    Plane    :     there are international flights to Frankfurt am Main International Airport (the busiest airport in Germany and 2nd largest in Europe) from many European cities and also from other continents. It's a major hub for Lufthansa.
  • Train: Germany's railway system is considered to be among the top all over the world, although it's a bit pricey. The railway system connects Frankfurt am Main with all the important cities and towns in the federal state and with the main cities in neighbouring states. It can be a good idea, in case of wanting to use a lot of trains on a day, taking Hessenticket (up to 5 people). There are also trains to international destinations like Strasbourg, Vienna, Basel, Brussels, Marseille, Paris or Amsterdam. 
  • Bus: buses are the cheapest mean of transport in German, but also one of the slowest. There are frequent buses from Frankfurt am Main (and also Kassel) to all the main cities and towns of the country and there are also connections among them (although less frequent). The offer of international bus trips in Frankfurt is large, including destinations like Zurich, Milan, Rome, Liubliana, Budapest or Zagreb.
  • Car: this is almost always the most comfortable way of moving for the lack of timetables to follow. It's required to have a green card (International Insurance Card). Most of the roads in Germany are in good conditions and driving in the country is easy, although there are often traffic jams. 

What can I eat and drink in Hesse?

Dish with different
sausages of Hesse
Hessian food is the result of its geographical position in the center of Germany, being a mixture of the gastronomy of the north and south of the country, with very important influence of Bavarian and Rhenish Hesse cuisines. Hessian cuisine is internationally known because of its sausages like Frankfurter Würstchen (thin parboiled sausage made of pure pork in a casing of sheep's intestine), Frankfurter Rindswurst (made of beef that may be boiled, broiled or grilled), Frankfurter Würstel (thin parboiled sausage traditionally made of pork and beef in a casing of sheep's intestine, then given a low temperature smoking) or Lyoner (Bologna sausage). Some other typical dishses are Handkäse (strong sour milk cheese from Frankfurt area) often served mit Musik (dressing of vinegar and raw onions); Frankfurter Rippchen (hot cured cutlet with sauerkraut). Around Kassel and in the north of Hesse there are some traditional dishes such as Ahle Wurst (air-dried or smoked sausage), Speckkuchen (bacon quiche), Nordhessische Bratwurst (similar to Thüringer Rostbratwurst), Krautshäuptchen (stuffed cabbage served with boiled potatoes and mustard sauce or bechamel sauce) or Weckewerk, a brawn sausage. In the north of Hesse it's typical to eat dishes with sauces like Grüne soße (a sour green sauce) or Duckefett (sauce made of bacon, onions and sour cream).
Bethmännchen
Hesse isn't known for its sweets but it still has some that are worth a try. Some of them are Bethmännchen (pastry made from marzipan with almond, powdered sugar, rosewater, flour and egg; popular in Frankfurt at Christmas), Pfeffernüsse (small spice cookies), Haddekuche (hard gingerbread scored like a Geripptes, traditional accompaniment to Apfelwein) or Schmandkuchen  (flat tray-baked cake consisting of a sponge-mixture bottom topped with a thick layer of sour cream). In Frankfurt am Main it's typical to eat Frankfurter Kranz (ring-shaped buttercream cake filled with buttercream and coated and sprinkled with brittle) or Frankfurter Brenten (a traditional tea biscuit).
Meal with Ebbelwei
Talking about drinking, we have to talk about beer (Bier) and an important of breweries, with local brands tending to dominate the market in each area. But Hesse has an important wine culture, mainly focused in Rheingau (one of the main wine-growing regions in Germany) and the smaller Hessische Bergstraße region. The former produces the famous Rheingauer Riesling while the second does dry wines popular in South Hesse. Cider (Apfelwein) is also widely drunk, especially in the Frankfurt-am-Main area, with the local Ebbelwei being traditionally served in a glass with a diamond pattern called Geripptes. Other popular drinks include Speierling (cider with service tree berries added) and Mispelchen (glass of calvados or apple brandy served with a medlar).

Useful links

 In case you want to look for more information about Hesse (https://www.hessen-tourismus.de/en/home/) or its cities, towns and places, here there's a list with some pages to get it:

 
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