Ceuta (سبتة in Arabic) is
a 85,144
inhabitants autonomous city of Spain located in the northwestern coast of Africa, bordering Morocco. It's in the boundary between the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. The population has mixed Catholic
Christian and Muslim traditions (between 40-50% of the population are of Moroccan origin) and the
official language is Spanish (although Moroccan Arabic is widely spoken too).
How do I arrive to Ceuta?
Ceuta is connected to Spain via Andalusia, although it's a bit expensive to arrive here.
- Plane: there are around 4 passenger helicopters from Algeciras (aprox. 10 minutes) and Málaga (aprox. 40 minutes).
- Boat: boats depart and arrive to Ceuta between 10-20 times per day, reaching Algeciras (aprox. 45 minutes).
- Car: the only possible way to access Ceuta from Morocco is by car. Ceuta can be reached by road from places such as Tétouan (aprox. ), Tangier (aprox. ), Ksar el-Kebir (aprox. ), Fez (aprox. ), Rabat (aprox. ) or Casablanca (aprox. ).
History
The first vestiges of human presence in Ceuta date back to 250,000 BC and in the 6th century, Phoenician settlements with the name of Abyla took place. Later it was occupied by Phocian Greeks, who renamed it Hepta Adelphoi and in 319 BC, Carthage would take over the city. With the surrender of Carthage after the Second Punic War, the city was ceded to the Kingdom of Numidia, then passing to Mauritanian rule and was conquered by Caligula in 40 AD, within the Roman province of Mauretania Tingitana. In 429 Ceuta fell into the power of the Vandals, led by its king Gaiseric and in 534, the Byzantine general Belisarius reconquered it, being later recovered by the Visigoths. In 709, Count Julián de Ceuta exchanged loyalties for the Umayyad Caliphate, in 788 it was invaded by the Idrisid emirate and in 931, the Umayyad Caliph Abd al-Rahman III conquered the city for the Caliphate of Córdoba. During the division of the Caliphate into Kingdoms of Taifas it remained under the rule of the Malaga taifa. According to the Treaty of Monteagudo de las Vicarías (1291) between Castile and Aragon, the city remains in the Castile area of influence although by then it was part of the Nasrid Kingdom of Granada. In 1415, King John I of Portugal embarked on the country's first overseas adventure in the area and after the battle of Ceuta, they conquered the city. After a treaty with the Marinid Sultanate, it recognized Ceuta as Portuguese. After the death of Sebastian I of Portugal, Ceuta joined the Hispanic Monarchy in 1580 and when Portugal regained its independence the city preferred to remain under the sovereignty of Philip IV of Spain. Between 1694 and 1724 the siege of Ceuta by the Sultan of Morocco took place, resisting in 1704 the British Royal Navy that took Gibraltar and the rest of the Moroccan sites of the 19th century. Between 1859 and 1860, the Hispano-Moroccan War and an increase in city limits took place. In 1912 the Spanish Protectorate of Morocco was established in its northern area of Morocco and from 1932 Ceuta was incorporated into the province of Cádiz. In 1936 the Spanish Civil War began in Ceuta when the uprising, carried out by Juan Yagüe's troops, prevailed in the city (military and politicians loyal to the government were later shot). Since its independence, Morocco claims sovereignty over the city of Ceuta and over Melilla, which Spain has never been willing to negotiate. In 1995 the Statute of Autonomy of the city was promulgated and Ceuta (together with Melilla) reached the status of an autonomous city.
What can I visit in Ceuta?
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Royal Walls of Ceuta
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Royal Walls of Ceuta: line of fortification that date back to 962 in its oldest part and the most modern parts to the 18th century, being the most representative monument in Ceuta and declared BIC. The walls have significant role in the Sieges of Ceuta by Moroccan troops in the 18th century. The structure consist of two large bastions at each end of the wall (called Baluarte de la Coraza and Baluarte de la Bandera) and a smaller bastion at the north flank, protected by a ditch filled with seawater. - Ceuta Cathedral:
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Ceuta Cathedral
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cathedral built between 17th and 18th centuries in a mixture of Baroque and Neoclassical styles in the site where used to be located the old Great Mosque of Ceuta (transformed into a church after the Portuguese conquest of 1415). It's the co-seat of the Diocese of Cádiz and Ceuta. Main sights in the cathedral are the Chapel of the Most Holy Trinity (a Baroque altarpiece), the frescoes by Miguel Bernardini and a 15th century figure of the Great Virgin, which is of Portuguese origin. - Church of St. María de África: Baroque style church that was used as provisional seat of the cathedral, restored to its current appearance in the 18th century. Its origin is a temple built to host the Gothic image of Our Lady of Africa brought to Ceuta by the Portuguese Prince Henry the Navigator in 1421.
- Late-Roman Basilica of Ceuta:
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Casa de los Dragones
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ruins of an Early Christian basilica from the end of the 4th century, with a floor plan typical of North African basilicas. It can be seen some parts of the walls and the necropolis. - The city has a series of buildings in ecclectic style that were built in the beginning of the 20th century due to the economic boom of the city. Some of the most impressing ones are Ceuta Assembly Palace (Neoclassical style building with frescoes by Mariano Bertuchi, home of the local parliament of Ceuta), Casa de los Dragones (building from 1905 that was designed by José María Manuel Cortina Pérez) or Casa Delgado.
- Ribera Beach:
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Ribera Beach
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popular beach located near the old town of Ceuta. It has the Blue Flag certification, as well as El Chorrillo Beach, another nice beach in Ceuta.
- La Legión Museum (10-13 Mon-Sat; free): military museum that celebrates the Spanish Legion (an elite military force directed and created in 1920 by José Millán Astray, framed within the Terrestrial Force of the Spanish Army). It's composed of tables, flags and pennants, photographs and other related materials.
- Ceuta Museum (11-14 and 17-20 Tue-Sat, 11-14 Sun; free): small museum on the history of Ceuta with a collection of archaeological pieces from the region of the Strait of Gibraltar from the Ancient Age to the Modern Age. It hosts temporary exhibitions too.
- St. Francisco Church: 18th century church built on an old Islamic madrasah.
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Parque Marítimo del Mediterráneo
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After suffering the confiscation process of the 19th century, the church survives in poor condition till it was restored in 1919. It was also declared BIC.
- Parque Marítimo del Mediterráneo
(11-20:30; 5.50€): leisure complex, designed by César Manrique and inaugurated in 1995, that consists of three artificial lakes of salt water, filtered directly from the sea. These are suitable for swimming during the summer months. There's also a park that contains gardens, ornamental waterfalls, sunbathing areas, a stage for concerts and shows and various entertainment establishments (bars, restaurants, pubs, a casino, a nightclub...).
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Arab Baths of Ceuta
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It has similarities with Parque Marítimo César Manrique in Puerto de la Cruz, Tenerife.
- Arab Baths of Ceuta: public baths that are located in the former Medina quarter since the 11th century, declared BIC. The baths had one room for clothes and toilets followed by a cold bath and then a hot bath in a style laid down by the Romans. The building was not being used in the 17th century.
- Nuestra Señora del Valle Church: church founded after the conquest of Ceuta by Portugal as a hermitage on the outskirts of town. The temple began to be rebuilt in 1677.
- Marinid Walls of Ceuta: set of walls and towers that were constructed in the 13th century during the Berber Marinid dynasty's domination. They were used as a citadel and shelter for troops that were forced to spend the night outside the medieval city. The walls are declared BIC.
- Muley el-Mehdi Mosque:
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Muley el-Mehdi Mosque
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mosque built in 1940 in gratitude for the support of the Muslim troops to the National side during the Spanish Civil War. Its façades are austere and in its interior religious teaching and Arabic language classes are given. Not far from here is located another mosque built in the 1940s for the same reasons and a similar outlook, Sidi Embarek Mosque. - Around Ceuta there are plenty of forts and barracks that can be observed and that provide great views of the city and the sea.
Where can I eat in Ceuta?
Ceuta has a mixture of seafood and Arabic food. Some of the nicest places to eat are El Secreto de Yuste (Avenida San Francisco Javier 3), the Moroccan restaurant Oasis (Urbanización San Antonio 89), El bistro de George (Calle Alférez Bayton 1 bajo) or the Mediterranean Mesón Restaurante Alberto (Avenida de África 19).