Monday 21 September 2020

Kashubian Landscape Park

Kashubian Landscape Park (also know as Kaszubski Park Krajobrazowy in Polish and Kaszëbsczi Park Krajòbrazny in Kashubian) is a 332 km² park located in the northern and central part of the Pomeranian Voivodeship in Poland. The National Park is named after the historic Kashubia, an ethnographic region of Poland with its own language/dialect.  

 


How do I arrive to Kashubian Landscape Park ?

 The area is quite easy to be reached because it has some large towns and it's in the heart of the voivodeship of Pomerania.
  • Train: there are some trains that connect Kartuzy with Żukowo (aprox. 15 minutes) from where going to Gdańsk (aprox. 1 hour 15 minutes). There are trains that reach Kościerzyna from Gdynia (aprox. 1 hour 20 minutes) or Chojnice (aprox. 1 hour 20 minutes).
  • Bus: there are buses directly from Gdańsk to Kartuzy (aprox. 1 hour) or to Kościerzyna (aprox. 1 hour 30 minutes) every hour. To arrive to Wdzydze Kiszewskie the visitor has to take a bus from Kościerzyna (aprox. 40 minutes).
  • Car: the Kashubian Landscape Park can be reached in many ways by car. You can arrive to Kartuzy from Żukowo (aprox. 15 minutes), Wejherowo (aprox. 40 minutes), Gdynia (aprox. 40 minutes), Gdańsk (aprox. 45 minutes), Lębork (aprox. 50 minutes) or Tczew (aprox. 1 hour)Kościerzyna can be reached from Kartuzy (aprox. 30 minutes), Bytów (aprox. 35 minutes), Starogard Gdański (aprox. 45 minutes), Gdańsk (aprox. 55 minutes), Tczew (aprox. 1 hour), Chojnice (aprox. 1 hour) in Bory Tucholskie National Park.
 Once in the Park the best ways to move around the park are the car or the bicycle.  

History

Kashubia or Cassubia is an ethnographic and language area in the historic Eastern Pomerania region where the use of Kashubian language. It's located west of Gdańsk and the mouth of the Vistula river and it is inhabited by members of the Kashubian ethnic group. According to some studies in 43 municipalities (gminas) of the Pomeranian Voivodeship at least a third of the total population speak Kashubian. Nevertheless, the Kashubian language enjoys a certain degree of legal protection in Poland, although it has long been mistakenly considered a "Germanized" dialect of Polish.
The Kashubians are considered to be direct descendants of the ancient Slavic tribe of the Pomeranians (who reached the lower regions of the Vistula and Oder around 1500 years ago). Kashubia is first mentioned by Duke Barnim I of Pomerania, in which he declares himself not only Duke of Pomerania, but also of Kashubia. In the middle and late Middle Ages there was a penetration of the Hanseatic League (establishing itself in the main coastal cities of the region), followed by the invation of the Teutonic Order. Since then Pomerania, Kashubia and Prussia were "Germanized"  (process that was extremely violent at the beginning) although some areas were reccovered by the Kingdom of Poland.
At the end of the Thirty Years' War and by the Treaty of Westphalia, certain areas of Western Pomerania passed from Poland to Sweden (the kings of Sweden assumed the title of Dukes of Pomerania). The oldest written document in the Kashubian language is a Lutheran catechism dating from 1643, which was republished in 1752 and 1828. During the period after the Peace of Westphalia, the territory of Kashubia passed to the sovereignty of the kingdom of Poland, although Danzig remained an independent feudal state populated by a German-speaking bourgeoisie. After the Partitions of Poland during the 18th century, Kashubia came under the dominion of the kingdom of Prussia until the Treaty of Versailles, when Kashubia was reintegrated into Poland under the name of "Polish Corridor", (although the city of Danzig was left as Free City of Danzig).
In the 1830s, a few hundred Kashubians migrated to Upper Canada (founding the town of Wilno) and in the 1850s Kashubian was thought in the schools in
Wejherowo area. In 1939 Kashubia was the first territory of Poland to be invaded by the Third Reich and in 1945 it was liberated.
 

What can I visit in Kashubian Landscape Park ?

These are many things to do in Słowiński National Park (7-21 from May to Sep; 8-16 from Oct to Apr; 6/ 3  adults/ reduced), explained now according to the town where they are or the nearest one:     
  • Żukowo (Żukòwò in Kashubian, Zuckau in German): 6,688 inhabitants town by Radunia river located outside the lanscape park, between Kartuzy and Gdańsk. It's an important cultural center for Kashubians and a good place for water sports entusiasts.
    • Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Marii Panny Catholic Church: Gothic church from the 14th century (rebuilt in the 15th and 17th centuries) that was part of the former Norbertine convent in Żukowo. It has some highlights such as the Baroque main altar with paintings by Herman Han, the 16th century triptych brought from Antwerp or the organ.
    • St. Jana Chrzciciela Catholic Church: church that was last built in the 17th century, although it was first built in 13th century and torn down when the Hussites attacked Pomerania in 1433. It was built in Gothic style and has a half-timbered tower and the remains of a Gothic cemetery. 
    • Żukowo Cemetery: cemetery that keeps many old tombs with nice decoration.
    • Miłosierdzia Bożego Catholic Church: Neo-Gothic church built in 2006 located outside the center of the town.
  • Kartuzy (Kartuzë in Kashubian, Karthaus in German): 14,716 inhabitants historic town and the center of Kashubia, home of the most important writers in Kashubian (Aleksander Majkowski). It's the most important town in the Kashubian Landscape Park and is surrounded by four lakes: Karczemne Lake, Klasztorne Duże, Klasztorne Małe and Mielenko.
    • Kashubian Museum (8-17 Tue-Fri, 9-17 Sat, 10-14 Sun; ; 12/ 6  adults/ reduced): surprising museum that shows the history, culture and language of the Kashubian, the ethnic group that inhabits Kashubia. The museum has a rich ethnographic collection and there are traditional objects such as kitchen utensils, traditional clothing, Kashubian folk instruments (like burczybas or diabelskie skrzypce), rustic furniture or the traditional black and brown pottery, one of the most typical of the region.

    • Kartuzy Collegiate Church (9-17:40 Mon-Fri, 13:30-17:40 Sun): collegiate church consacrated to Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Maryi Panny that is the best-preserved church of the Carthusian Order in Poland. It was built in the 14th century in Brick Gothic style but has some elements added later that are in Baroque style. The main highlights of the church are valuable fittings from the 15th-18th centuries interior (like the Gothic altar, rich Baroque stalls or the walls of the chancel, covered with a Flanders kurdyban from 1683 and the Prior's throne).
    • Refektarz Gallery: small Contemporary art gallery placed in the former monastery refectory of the complex of the Carthusian Order that promotes local Kashubian artists and also Polish and international ones.
    • St. Kazimierza Catholic Church: Neo-Gothic church built in the 1880s as a Lutheran church (after WW2 it was transformed into a Catholic church). Its constuction was made in red brick, has a 50 m high clock-tower and a wooden ceiling.
    • Działkowe Park: nice park with a promenade around the lake, having great views of Kartuzy old town from Aleja Filozofów.
    • The town preserved many manors and old houses that are worth to have a look at.
  • Kościerzyna (Kòscérzna in Kashubian, Berent in German): 23,776 inhabitants town in Kashubia.
    • Świętej Trójcy Catholic Church: Neo-Baroque style church that works as a Marian sanctuary. It was first built in the 18th century in Baroque style but then rebuilt in Neo-baroque style in the 1910s. It's a magnificent brick building  and most of the equipment comes mainly from the first half of the 18th century.
    • Museum of the Kościerzyna County (10-16 Mon, 10-18 Tue-Sat, 12-18 Sun from May to Aug; 8-16 Mon-Fri, 10-18 Sat, 12-18 Sun in Sep; 8-16 Mon-Fri from Oct to Apr; 7/ 6  adults/ reduced): small museum that shows the ethnography and history of Kościerzyna from Pre-history to modern times, including, a model of the 19th century Kościerzyna, art, everyday objects and furniture of the Kościerzyna County and its nature. It's located in the building of Kościerzyna Town Hall, a Neo-Gothic building from the 1840s. There's a ticket that includes the Museum of Kościerzyna County and the Railway Museum of Kościerzyna (14/ 12  adults/ reduced).
    • Zmartwychwstania Pańskiego Catholic Church: Neo-Gothic church built in the 1890s and used till 1945 by Lutherans. It has a curious mechanical clock consisting of three dials from Bochum in 1893.
    • Railway Museum of Kościerzyna (10-16 Mon, 10-18 Tue-Sun; 10/ 8  adults/ reduced): railway museum in a now defunct locomotive depot near Kościerzyna railway station and exhibits mostly steam locomotives but also several diesel and electric locomotives. Visitors can also see several exhibitions of machines and devices connected with the history of Polish railway.
  • The landscape park has many lakes and one of the most spectacular ones is Raduńskie Lake, one of the largest lakes in the Pomeranian voivodeship, whose area around it is known as Kashubian Switzerland because of its natural beauty. The lake is very narrow and very long, often used by water sports enthusiasts. It has some nice towns and villages around such as Stężyca (Stãżëca in Kashubian, Stendsitz in German), a village with 2,108 inhabitants and two nice churches: St. Katarzyny Aleksandryjskiej Catholic Church (Brick Gothic church built in the 13th century) and Stężyca Lutheran Church (a birck Neo-Gothic church built in the late-19th century). Another nice village by the lake is Zgorzałe (Zgòrzałé in Kashubian, Seedorf in German), 353 inhabitants, where it was named the first street honouring Lech Wałęsa.
  • Further from the main lakes there's Mojusz (Mòjsz in Kashubian, in German), a village with 478 inhabitants where finding some interesting trails such as Mojusz Ecological Path (1.8 km) that introduces the visitor to the landscape of this part of Pomerania.
  • Continuing east it can be found the small district of Wdzydze Kiszewskie (Kiszewsczé Wdzëdzé in Kashubian, Wdzidzen in German), a traditional Kashubian village with 188 inhabitants. Here it can be found the Kashubian Ethnographic Park (9-16 Tue-Sun; 16/ 11  adults/ reduced), an open-air museum located on the banks of the Gołuń Lake that contains a range of structures representing regional architecture of Kashubia, showing the traditional culture of the Kashubians. Among the rescued buildings there are houses, a school, a mill and even a 18th century church. There's a nice path to discover the area Wdzydze Trail (4 km) too
  • Another important lake in the park is Wdzydze Lake, one of the largest lakes in the Pomeranian voivodeship that is also very close to Wdzydze Kiszewskie. One of the most important villages on its shore is Wdzydze Tucholskie (Wdzidze in Kashubian, Weitsee in German), a village with 335 people.
  • The Landscape Park has other trails like for example Łapalice Trail (10 km), Jezioro Raduńskie Trail (10 km) or RamlejeTrail (16 km).
Kashubian Ethnographic Park
Kartuzy Collegiate Church


Bytów Castle
Going 36 km west from Kościerzyna the visitor arrives to Bytów (Bëtowò in Kashubian, Bütow in German), a town with 16,881 inhabitants that was known to be a multicultural town inhabited by Kashubians, Poles, Slovincians, Germans and Jews. Its main sightseeing point is Bytów Castle, a 14th century castle built by the Teutonic Order and then seized by Poland in the 15th century. It was later ceded to the House of Pomerania, being the stronghold and residence of the Dukes of Pomerania, and in the 19th century was partially rebuilt in Frederick William I of Prussia times. The castle is currently home of Western Kashubian Museum in Bytów (10-16 Tue-Sun; 12/ 8  adults/ reduced), an ethnographic museum that shows the history of Bytów and its inhabitants. It has also a branch in the remains of a 14th century Brick Gothic church destroyed during WW2, Western Kashubian Museum in Bytów: Gothic Tower of St. Katarzyny (3/ 2  adults/ reduced), that today is home of archaeological and historical exhibitions about Bytów and its region. The town has two important churches: St Jerzego Greek Catholic Church (17th century church that used to be a Lutheran church with services in Kashubian and has a half-timbered system where it can be seen some a nice tabernacle, iconostasis, Baroque carved stalls and a choir) and Sts. Katarzyny Aleksandryjskiej i Jana Chrzciciela Catholic Church (chruch whose construction began in the 1880s and was inspired by St. Matthäus Lutheran Church in Berlin). Here there's a nice bridge too, Bytów Railway Bridge, from around 1884 and the town keeps some historic houses too. 

Where can I eat in Kashubian Landscape Park?

This Landscape Park doesn't have a quite important culinary offer so it's a good idea to eat its most important towns or to buy food from supermarket.

 
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