Monday 24 August 2020

Montepulciano

Montepulciano is a 13,984 inhabitants town located in a volcanic hill in the southern part of Tuscany, Italy. It's part of the province of Siena and it's part of Val di Chiana (very close to neighbouring Val d'Orcia). Its famous for being set of famous films and because of its wine, vino nobile di Montalcino.

 

How do I arrive to Montepulciano?

  Montepulciano isn't very well connected with other destinations in Tuscany
  • Train: Montepulciano is connected by train to Siena (aprox. 1 hour 10 minutes).
  • Bus: there are 4 daily buses from and to Siena (aprox. 1 hour 30 minutes) that stop at Pienza  (aprox. 20 minutes) and 10 daily buses to Montalcino (aprox. 1 hour).
  • Car: if you rented a car it can be reached from Montalcino many places just like Chianciano Terme (aprox. 20 minutes), Pienza (aprox. 20 minutes), San Quirico d'Orcia (aprox. 30 minutes), Cortona (aprox. 40 minutes), Chiusure (aprox. 45 minutes), Montalcino (aprox. 45 minutes), Castiglion Fiorentino (aprox. 45 minutes), Arezzo (aprox. 50 minutes) or Siena (aprox. 55 minutes). Montepulciano can also be reached from Orvieto (aprox. 1 hour 5 minutes) and Perugia (aprox. 1 hour 15 minutes) in Umbria.

History

According to legend Montepulciano was founded by the Etruscan King Lars Porsena of Chiusi and recent findings prove that a settlement already existed in the 4th-3rd centuries BC. In Roman times it was the seat of a garrison guarding the main roads of the area and after the fall of the Roman Empire, it developed as a religious center under the Lombards. In the 12th century it was repeatedly attacked by the Republic of Siena, which the Poliziani (inhabitants of Montepulciano) faced with the help of the Perugia and Orvieto and sometimes Florence. Constant struggles surged in the 14th century between the local noble families until the Del Pecora family became rulers of the town. Montepulciano was a loyal ally (and later possession) of Florence from 1390 and lived a period of splendour until the mid-16th century. In 1559, When Siena was conquered by Florence in 1559,Montepulciano lost its strategic role and its importance declined. After the unification of Italy and the drying of the Val di Chiana, the town remained the most important agricultural center in the area while the industrial activities moved mostly next to Chiusi (that was nearer to the railroad being built in that period).
 

What can I visit in Montepulciano?

This town is very picturesque with its mixture of Medieval heritage, enotecas and landscape full of vineyards. Its streets are very popular to be walked and has spectacular public places such as Il Corso or Piazza Grande (having appeared in films like The Twilight Saga: New Moon or the serie Medici: Masters of Florence). Montepulciano is also know for its festival Bravio delle Botti (last Sun of August) in which members of the eight contrade of Montalcino push wine barrels up to a hill.
These are Montepulciano's main attractions:
  • Il Corso is the street that goes from one side of Montepulciano to the other one. On its ways it can be found palaces like Palazzo Avignonesi, Palazzo di Bucelli or Palazzo Cocconi or monuments such as Colonna del Marzocca, column from 1511 that ratified the loyalty of Montepulciano to Florence.
  • Pulcinella Tower: medieval clock tower with a clock in which Pulcinella (classical character that originated in commedia dell'arte of the 17th century and stock character in Neapolitan puppetry) that points the time.
  • Sant'Agostino Church (9-12 and 15-18): 15th century church (although founded in 1285) reformed by Michelozzo di Bartolomeo. Inside there are some works that are worth a look like Resurrection of Lazarus by Alessandro Allori, San Nicola da Tolentino by Giovanni di Paolo, a polychrome wooden by Antonio da Sangallo or a Crucifixion by Lorenzo di Credi
  • St. Lucia Church: 17th century church in Baroque style with a particularly spectacular portal. Here it can be found a nice altarpiece, the Madonna Enthroned with Child by Luca Signorelli. 
  • Palazzo Comunale (10-18; 5€/ 2.50  adults/ reduced): Gothic Florentine palace built in the 14th century and modified by Michelozzo in the 15th century that still works as the town hall of Montepulciano. The ground floor of the façade is covered in ashlar, while the upper levels are in travertine; the crowning consists of a protruding gallery with Guelph battlements and inside there's a courtyard with two superimposed loggias. It can also be visited the terrace on its own (2.50€), from where reaching to see Pienza, Montalcino and even Siena on sunny days.
  • Civic Museum and Crociani Art Gallery (10-19 from Apr to Oct; 10-18 Sat-Sun from Nov to Feb; 6€/ 4  adults/ reduced): museum with a collection of works of art, archeologic items and terracotta works by the Della Robbia family. It has important paintings like Sant’Agnese Segni with a Model of the City of Montepulciano attributed to Domenico Beccafumi, a Crucifixion by Filippino Lippi or a Holy Family with young St John the Baptist by il Sodoma. In 2011 it was attributed to Caravaggio the museum's painting Portrait of a Nobleman, becoming since them the star of the museum
  • Montepulciano Cathedral (8-19; free): Renaissance style duomo built in the 16th century by the architect Ippolito Scalza. Its façade remains unfinished but inside the cathedral has rich decoration with many works of art. The masterpiece of the cathedral is the monumental Triptych of the Assumption by Taddeo di Bartolo, that dominates the high altar. It also has other interesting pieces like the 15th century funeral monument of Bartolomeo Aragazzi by Michelozzo, the 14th century baptismal font attributed to Giovanni di Agostino or Tino di Camaino and a polychrome glazed terracotta by Andrea Della Robbia in the so-called altar of the Lilies.
  • Montepulciano Fortress: fortress first erected in 1261, destroyed and rebuilt several times due to the disputes over Montepulciano by the Sienese and Florentines, and lastly reconstructed by Antonio da Sangallo the Elder. After it stopped being used as a military building it has been used for multiple purposes, currently having exhibitions or host. Currently some of its rooms are used as exhibition spaces or host the Kennesaw State University in Georgia (that uses it for didactic-training purposes).
  • Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Biagio (10-13 and 14-18 Fri-Mon; 3.50): church built by Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, height of Renaissance studies on the centralized Greek cross plan applied to Catholic buildings. Its considered one of the best examples of Renaissance religious architecture in whole Tuscany.

Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Biagio
Piazza Grande

 
Monte Oliveto Maggiore Abbey
Going out from Montepulciano 35 km it can be reached Chiusure, a village with 90 inhabitants where it's located Monte Oliveto Maggiore Abbey (9:15-12 and 15:15-17 Mon-Sat from Oct to May;
9:15-12 and 15:15-19 Mon-Sat from Jun to Sep; free). This 14th century abbey hidden in the middle of a forest founded by Giovanni Tolomei (then become St. Bernardo Tolomei) that still has monks living there. Its cloister has frescoes that show the life of St. Benedict of Nursia (founder of the order in charge of the abbey, the Order of St. Benedict) by Luca Signorelli and by Il Sodoma. The abbey's church has a magnificent wooden choir and a dining room with frecoes by Fra' Paolo Novelli. It can also be visited the library, museum and pharmacy of the abbey (donative) and the traditional winery (10-13 and 14:40-18:30; free).
Art Museum of Chianciano
Driving only 11 km south the visitor reaches to Chianciano Terme (
7,072 inhabitants), a town whose therapeutic springs that have been healing people since Roman and Etruscan times, probably one of the most popular spa towns in whole Italy. Once here, it can be a good idea to visit the surprising Art Museum of Chianciano (), museum whose collections of more than 1000 works range from contemporary to Asian art founded by Roberto Gagliardi (Italian-born art dealer based in London). It has works by Salvador Dalì, Caroline Leeds, Luca Giordano, Edvard Munch, Albrecht Dürer, Francisco de Goya and Rembrandt; and a historical section containing portraits and an icon given by Pope Pius XII to Princess Margaret in 1949. The town has two nice churches: Madonna della Rosa Church, church with 15th century frescoes by Sienese masters portraying the Virgin giving a Rose to the Child and the Madonna delle Carceri; and St. Giovanni Battista Collegiate Church, Romanesque-Gothic building with a notable portal and that houses a Holy Scene fresco, a 14th-century crucifix and a wooden Dead Christ by Giuseppe Paleari. Archaeological Museum of Chianciano Terme (10-13 and 16-19 from Jun to Aug; ), considered to be one of the most beautiful Etruscan museums due to the wealth of artefacts it houses and the way they are explained, is a good sightseeing point too.

Where can I eat in Montepulciano?

 There are many excellent places to eat in Montepulciano but the best choices aren't as cheap as Montalcino's ones. The most recommended places are the enoteca La Dogana (Strada Lauretana Sud 75 in Valiano), osteria Acquacheta (Via del Teatro 22), the restaurant La Grotta (Via di San Biagio 15) and the osteria E Lucevan Le Stelle (Piazza San Francesco 5).
Vino nobile di Montepulciano
The area of Montepulciano is a very good choice to get deeper into the wine culture of Tuscany and know one of its most famous wines (protected with
DOC), vino nobile di Montepulciano. Visiting a winery can be a good choice to learn about this world wide known wine and some of the most recommended ones are Cantina de' Ricci (Via Ricci 11), Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Via San Donato 21), Cantina Storica Talosa (Via Talosa 8), Bodega Palazzo Vecchio (Via Terra Rosa 5 in Valiano) or Fattoria Le Capezzine (Via Colonica 1 in Valiano).

 
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