Montepulciano

Montepulciano is a 13,984 inhabitants town located in a volcanic hill in the southern part of Tuscany, Italy. It's part of the province of Siena and it's part of Val di Chiana (very close to neighbouring Val d'Orcia). Its famous for being set of famous films and because of its wine, vino nobile di Montalcino.

 

How do I arrive to Montepulciano?

  Montepulciano isn't very well connected with other destinations in Tuscany. 

• Train: Montepulciano is connected by train to Siena (aprox. 1 hour 10 minutes).
  
• Bus: there are 4 daily buses from and to Siena (aprox. 1 hour 30 minutes) that stop at Pienza  (aprox. 20 minutes) and 10 daily buses to Montalcino (aprox. 1 hour).
• Car: if you rented a car it can be reached from Montalcino many places just like Chianciano Terme (aprox. 20 minutes), Pienza (aprox. 20 minutes), San Quirico d'Orcia (aprox. 30 minutes), Cortona (aprox. 40 minutes), Chiusure (aprox. 45 minutes), Montalcino (aprox. 45 minutes), Castiglion Fiorentino (aprox. 45 minutes), Arezzo (aprox. 50 minutes) or Siena (aprox. 55 minutes). Montepulciano can also be reached from Orvieto (aprox. 1 hour 5 minutes) and Perugia (aprox. 1 hour 15 minutes) in Umbria.
  

History

According to legend Montepulciano was founded by the Etruscan King Lars Porsena of Chiusi and recent findings prove that a settlement already existed in the 4th-3rd centuries BC. In Roman times it was the seat of a garrison guarding the main roads of the area and after the fall of the Roman Empire, it developed as a religious center under the Lombards. In the 12th century it was repeatedly attacked by the Republic of Siena, which the Poliziani (inhabitants of Montepulciano) faced with the help of the Perugia and Orvieto and sometimes Florence. Constant struggles surged in the 14th century between the local noble families until the Del Pecora family became rulers of the town. Montepulciano was a loyal ally (and later possession) of Florence from 1390 and lived a period of splendour until the mid-16th century. In 1559, When Siena was conquered by Florence in 1559,Montepulciano lost its strategic role and its importance declined. After the unification of Italy and the drying of the Val di Chiana, the town remained the most important agricultural center in the area while the industrial activities moved mostly next to Chiusi (that was nearer to the railroad being built in that period).
 

What can I visit in Montepulciano?

This town is very picturesque with its mixture of Medieval heritage, enotecas and landscape full of vineyards. Its streets are very popular to be walked and has spectacular public places such as Il Corso or Piazza Grande (having appeared in films like The Twilight Saga: New Moon or the serie Medici: Masters of Florence). Montepulciano is also know for its festival Bravio delle Botti (last Sun of August) in which members of the eight contrade of Montalcino push wine barrels up to a hill.

These are Montepulciano's main attractions:

• Il Corso is the street that goes from one side of Montepulciano to the other one. On its ways it can be found palaces like Palazzo Avignonesi, Palazzo di Bucelli or Palazzo Cocconi or monuments such as Colonna del Marzocca, column from 1511 that ratified the loyalty of Montepulciano to Florence.
  
• Pulcinella Tower: medieval clock tower with a clock in which Pulcinella (classical character that originated in commedia dell'arte of the 17th century and stock character in Neapolitan puppetry) that points the time.
  
• Sant'Agostino Church (9-12 and 15-18): 15th century church (although founded in 1285) reformed by Michelozzo di Bartolomeo. Inside there are some works that are worth a look like Resurrection of Lazarus by Alessandro Allori, San Nicola da Tolentino by Giovanni di Paolo, a polychrome wooden by Antonio da Sangallo or a Crucifixion by Lorenzo di Credi
  
• St. Lucia Church: 17th century church in Baroque style with a particularly spectacular portal. Here it can be found a nice altarpiece, the Madonna Enthroned with Child by Luca Signorelli. 
• Palazzo Comunale (10-18; 5€/ 2.50€  adults/ reduced): Gothic Florentine palace built in the 14th century and modified by Michelozzo in the 15th century that still works as the town hall of Montepulciano. The ground floor of the façade is covered in ashlar, while the upper levels are in travertine; the crowning consists of a protruding gallery with Guelph battlements and inside there's a courtyard with two superimposed loggias. It can also be visited the terrace on its own (2.50€), from where reaching to see Pienza, Montalcino and even Siena on sunny days.
• Civic Museum and Crociani Art Gallery (10-19 from Apr to Oct; 10-18 Sat-Sun from Nov to Feb; 6€/ 4€  adults/ reduced): museum with a collection of works of art, archeologic items and terracotta works by the Della Robbia family. It has important paintings like Sant’Agnese Segni with a Model of the City of Montepulciano attributed to Domenico Beccafumi, a Crucifixion by Filippino Lippi or a Holy Family with young St John the Baptist by il Sodoma. In 2011 it was attributed to Caravaggio the museum's painting Portrait of a Nobleman, becoming since them the star of the museum. 
  
• Montepulciano Cathedral (8-19; free): Renaissance style duomo built in the 16th century by the architect Ippolito Scalza. Its façade remains unfinished but inside the cathedral has rich decoration with many works of art. The masterpiece of the cathedral is the monumental Triptych of the Assumption by Taddeo di Bartolo, that dominates the high altar. It also has other interesting pieces like the 15th century funeral monument of Bartolomeo Aragazzi by Michelozzo, the 14th century baptismal font attributed to Giovanni di Agostino or Tino di Camaino and a polychrome glazed terracotta by Andrea Della Robbia in the so-called altar of the Lilies.
  
• Montepulciano Fortress: fortress first erected in 1261, destroyed and rebuilt several times due to the disputes over Montepulciano by the Sienese and Florentines, and lastly reconstructed by Antonio da Sangallo the Elder. After it stopped being used as a military building it has been used for multiple purposes, currently having exhibitions or host. Currently some of its rooms are used as exhibition spaces or host the Kennesaw State University in Georgia (that uses it for didactic-training purposes).
  
• Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Biagio (10-13 and 14-18 Fri-Mon; 3.50€): church built by Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, height of Renaissance studies on the centralized Greek cross plan applied to Catholic buildings. Its considered one of the best examples of Renaissance religious architecture in whole Tuscany.

Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Biagio

Piazza Grande

 

Monte Oliveto Maggiore Abbey

Going out from Montepulciano 35 km it can be reached Chiusure, a village with 90 inhabitants where it's located Monte Oliveto Maggiore Abbey (9:15-12 and 15:15-17 Mon-Sat from Oct to May; 9:15-12 and 15:15-19 Mon-Sat from Jun to Sep; free). This 14th century abbey hidden in the middle of a forest founded by Giovanni Tolomei (then become St. Bernardo Tolomei) that still has monks living there. Its cloister has frescoes that show the life of St. Benedict of Nursia (founder of the order in charge of the abbey, the Order of St. Benedict) by Luca Signorelli and by Il Sodoma. The abbey's church has a magnificent wooden choir and a dining room with frecoes by Fra' Paolo Novelli. It can also be visited the library, museum and pharmacy of the abbey (donative) and the traditional winery (10-13 and 14:40-18:30; free).

Art Museum of Chianciano

Driving only 11 km south the visitor reaches to Chianciano Terme (7,072 inhabitants), a town whose therapeutic springs that have been healing people since Roman and Etruscan times, probably one of the most popular spa towns in whole Italy. Once here, it can be a good idea to visit the surprising Art Museum of Chianciano (), museum whose collections of more than 1000 works range from contemporary to Asian art founded by Roberto Gagliardi (Italian-born art dealer based in London). It has works by Salvador Dalì, Caroline Leeds, Luca Giordano, Edvard Munch, Albrecht Dürer, Francisco de Goya and Rembrandt; and a historical section containing portraits and an icon given by Pope Pius XII to Princess Margaret in 1949. The town has two nice churches: Madonna della Rosa Church, church with 15th century frescoes by Sienese masters portraying the Virgin giving a Rose to the Child and the Madonna delle Carceri; and St. Giovanni Battista Collegiate Church, Romanesque-Gothic building with a notable portal and that houses a Holy Scene fresco, a 14th-century crucifix and a wooden Dead Christ by Giuseppe Paleari. Archaeological Museum of Chianciano Terme (10-13 and 16-19 from Jun to Aug; ), considered to be one of the most beautiful Etruscan museums due to the wealth of artefacts it houses and the way they are explained, is a good sightseeing point too.

Where can I eat in Montepulciano?

 There are many excellent places to eat in Montepulciano but the best choices aren't as cheap as Montalcino's ones. The most recommended places are the enoteca La Dogana (Strada Lauretana Sud 75 in Valiano), osteria Acquacheta (Via del Teatro 22), the restaurant La Grotta (Via di San Biagio 15) and the osteria E Lucevan Le Stelle (Piazza San Francesco 5).

Vino nobile di Montepulciano

The area of Montepulciano is a very good choice to get deeper into the wine culture of Tuscany and know one of its most famous wines (protected with DOC), vino nobile di Montepulciano. Visiting a winery can be a good choice to learn about this world wide known wine and some of the most recommended ones are Cantina de' Ricci (Via Ricci 11), Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Via San Donato 21), Cantina Storica Talosa (Via Talosa 8), Bodega Palazzo Vecchio (Via Terra Rosa 5 in Valiano) or Fattoria Le Capezzine (Via Colonica 1 in Valiano).

Read more »

Posted in: Europe,Italy,Tuscany

Cortona

Cortona is a 22,104 inhabitants town on a hill in the southeastern part of Tuscany, in Italy. It's part of province of Arezzo and the most important town of the province in the Val di Chiana. Cortona is home of a wine DOC, has appeared on famous films and has an important Etruscan heritage (it was one of the 12 Etruscan cities).

How do I arrive to Cortona?

  Cortona isn't very well connected with the rest of Tuscany but still it isn't so difficult to reach

• Train: the nearest station is Camucia-Cortona, from where there are frequent trains to Arezzo (aprox. 25 minutes) and Florence (aprox. 1 hour 45 minutes) and even Rome (aprox. 2 hour 45 minutes) in Lazio.
• Bus: there are some buses from Cortona that reach destinations Arezzo (aprox. 1 hour) via Castiglion Fiorentino.
• Car: if you rented a car many places can be reached from Cortona like Castiglion Fiorentino (aprox. 25 minutes), Arezzo (aprox. 35 minutes), Lucignano (aprox. 40 minutes), Montepulciano (aprox. 45 minutes), Siena (aprox. 1 hour 10 minutes) and Montalcino (aprox. 1 hour 15 minutes). It can also be reached from Perugia (aprox. 50 minutes) and Città di Castello (aprox. 1 hour) in Umbria.

History

Cortona was founded by the Etruscans and between the 8th and 7th centuries BC it was important Etruscan kingdom (one of the dodecapoli etrusca) due to its strategic location. Cortona was later taken by Rome. The Goths occupied Cortona in 450 AD, losing its importance.News of high Medieval age in Cortona aren't very clear (it's still unknown if Cortona had a bishopric). Since the 13th century the town was a free municipality allied with Perugia, to defend themselves from Arezzo during the fights between the Guelphs and the Ghibellines, that characterized the whole 13th century in Cortona. In the 14th century, Pope John XXII decides to confer the character of a diocese in Cortona and untill the beginning of the 15th century Cortona was entrusted to Casali family. In the 15th century Cortona became part of the Republic of Florence, being an important city from the military point of view, and was attacked by the Spanish army of the Prince of Orange to Cosimo I. Florentine Renaissance flourished in the 16th century in Cortona and in the 17th century Medici dynasty was succeeded the Habsburg-Lorraine, improving the civil infrastructure of the area. In 1727 the Etruscan Academy was born, an early research center of the Etruscan civilization.Cortona was attacked by Napoleon's troops in 1799, returning then to the Grand Duchy of Tuscany and being part of united Italy in 1860.
 

What can I visit in Cortona?

The town of Cortona is very nice to be walked, discovering its history that dates back from Etruscan times. Here important films such as Under the Tuscan Sun were filmed and it has an antiquities festival too.

These are Cortona's main attractions:

• Cortona Cathedral (7:30-13 and 15:30-18:30 from May to Sep; winter daily 8-12:30 and 15-17:30 from Oct to Apr; free): 11th century Romanesque-Renaissance style duomo that has been rebuilt many times, not losing all the harmony of the original building. It was the seat of the Bishops of Cortona from 1507 to 1986, and is now a co-cathedral in the present Diocese of Arezzo-Cortona-Sansepolcro. The cathedral used to have a lot of works of art that now are located at Cortona Diocesan Museum.
  
• Cortona Diocesan Museum (10-19 from Apr to Oct; 10-17 Tue-Sun from Nov to Mar; 5€/ 3€  adults/ reduced): museum placed at the former Church and Oratory of Gesù, 16th century building with 3 works by Luca Signorelli, that exhibits a lot of important works such as Annunciation by Fra Angelico, Lamentation over the dead Christ by Luca Signorelli, a Shaped Cross by Pietro Lorenzetti and the Passerini Tapestry (vestments made to be worn by Pope Leo X de’ Medici during his visit in Cortona).
• Museum of the Etruscan Academy and the Town of Cortona (10-19 from Apr to Oct; 10-17 Tue-Sun from Nov to Mar; 10€/ 7€  adults/ reduced): museum placed at the 13th century Palazzo Casali that displays an excellect collection of Etruscan and Roman remains, 18th century works of arts, Contemporary paintings and even Renaissance globes. Without a doubt the most outstanding part of the collection is the Etruscan one, specially the pieces found in the tombs of Sodo. There's a combined ticket for the Museum of the Etruscan Academy and the Town of Cortona and Cortona Archaeological Park (13€/ 8€  adults/ reduced).
• Palazzo Comunale di Cortona: palace built in the 13th century and reconstructed around 1275 by Master Tuto. It has a roof with painted beams and both the balcony on the façade and the chimney piece were added in the 16th century.
• St. Maria Nuova Church: 16th century church on plans of Cristofanello in Late Renaissance style. It has a painting of the Nativity of Mary by Allori.
  
• Basilica of St. Margherita (8-12 and 15-19 from Jun to Sep; 9-12 and 15-18 from Oct to May): Noegothic basilica completely restored in the 19th century located in one of the highest points of Cortona. Its façade and its colourful interior are worth to be seen. On its high altar it can be found St. Margherita's tomb from the 14th century and there's a wooden crucifix dating to the 13th century too.
  
• Fortress of Girifalco (10-20 from Jun to Aug; 10-19 from Apr to May and Sep; 10-18 from Oct to Nov and Mar; 10-18 Sa-Sun from Dec to Feb; 5€/ 3€  adults/ reduced): ruins of a fortress built during Cosimo I de' Medici times where getting awesome views of Val di Chiana, Trasimeno Lake in Umbria and the surrounding area.
  
• Cortona Archaeological Park (10-13 and 15-18 from Apr to Sep; 10-14 Fri-Sun from Oct to Mar; 5€/ 3€  adults/ reduced): complex of archaeological monuments distributed distributed on a large area and which embrace the Etruscan and Roman periods. Inside Cortona you can appreciate the remains of the city in the Etruscan period (mighty walls, the mullioned door and a series of underground structures) and from the Roman period (remains of the aqueduct and the cistern of the "Bagni di Bacco"). Outside the plain dominates the meloni (Etruscan mounds from the Archaic period).
  
• Going 3 km north from Cortona there's the Hermitage Convent of Le Celle (7-19), a Franciscan convent located by a stream in the middle of the forest. This convent is known because it was inhabited by St. Francis of Assisi and his cell has been preserved.

Palazzo Comunale di Cortona

Exhibition at the Museum of the Etruscan
Academy and the Town of Cortona

Views of Castiglion Fiorentino

Going 13 km north from Cortona it can be found the town of Castiglion Fiorentino, with 13,195 inhabitants. Picturesque town that is a perfect stop in the way that connects Arezzo and Cortona. Here there's a festival similar to Siena's palio but smaller, Palio dei Rioni (third Sun in Jun). The best idea here is walking for its streets within the walled old town and getting lost to discover it. There are some interesting places to visit such as Cassero Tower (10-12:30 and 15:30-19 Thu-Sun; free), half-ruined tower of the ancient castle of Castiglion Fiorentino, from where getting nice views of Val di Chiana. Close to it, in the former medival fortress, is located Archaeological Civic Museum of Castiglion Fiorentino (10-12:30 and 15:30-18 Fri-Sun; free), a museum with archeological remains and that incorporates the medieval prison cells, the subterranean remains of a 6th-century-BC Etruscan temple and an Etruscan house from the late 4th century BC.. Another interesting place is the Pinacoteca Comunale (10-12:30 and 15:30-18 Fri-Sun; free), an art gallery with a small collection of art that includes masterpieces such as Madonna and Child from the school of Taddeo Gaddi and a Stigmata of St Francis by Bartolomeo della Gatta. In the main square in town, Piazza del Comune, Giorgio Vasari built the Logge del Vasari, a nine arch loggia from 1513 that has been restored some times.

Air view of Lucignano

In case of driving west from Cortona, around 32 km from it there's the town of Lucignano (3,546 inhabitants). It's a well-preserved medieval hill town characterized by an oval shape and is surrounded by countryside, nicknamed the pearl of Val di Chiana. Some of the things to be done here are going to the Museo Comunale di Lucignano (10-17 Tue-Fri and 10-18 Sat-Sun), a small museum with only a few pieces and whose most spectacular piece is a reliquary known as L’albero della vita; the Palazzo Pretorio, 12th century town hall building, is worth a look too. The town has some nice churches such as St. Michele Arcangel Collegiate Church (a Renaissance style church designed by Orazio Porta with nice altarpieces) or St. Francesco Church (a Romanesque-Gothic style church with a bicolored façade and with a fresco attributed to Bartolo di Fredi, Triumph of Death Fresco).Outside the center of the town there's the Sanctuary of Madonna della Querce, a Renaissance style sanctuary whose design is attributed to Giorgio Vasari and that has a nice work of art in one of the altarpieces, Saints Benedict, Apollonia, and Catherine of Siena by Matteo Rosselli.

Where can I eat in Cortona?

  Cortona has nice places where eating traditional Tuscan food. Some of the cheapest and most recommended places to are the patisserie Banchelli (Via Nazionale 11), hamburger restaurant Beerbone Artburger (Via Nazionale 55) or the Tuscan restaurant La Fett'unta (Via Giuseppe Maffei 5). There are also nice choices for medium-prize food such as La Bucaccia (Via Ghibellina 17) or Taverna Pane e Vino (Piazza Luca Signorelli 27).

 In case of wanting to take an original souvenir it's highly recommended to visit Falegnameria Rossia (Via Guelfa 28), with wooden artisan works. 

In Castiglione Fiorentino it's almost compulsory to eat bistecca alla fiorentina at Ristorante Da Muzzicone (Piazza San Francesco 7).

Read more »

Posted in: Europe,Italy,Tuscany

Chianti

Chianti is an area located in parts of the provinces of Siena and Florence, placed in the center of Tuscany, Italy. The region is known for its landscapes full of vineyards (the typical Tuscan landscape) and it's famous around the world due to its wine, Chianti wine. But the area of Chianti is the most popular rural area of Tuscany, Italy and maybe Europe, having appeared in many films, books through history.

How do I arrive to Chianti?

  Chianti is located between Florence and Siena and therefore it's quite well communicated. The beast mean of transport to discover Chianti is, without any kind of doubt, the car because public transport is rather unfrequent.

• Bus: there are frequent buses that connect Greve in Chianti with Panzano in Chianti (aprox. 15 minutes) and Florence (aprox. 1 hour). Buses go to San Casciano in Val di Pesa 10 times per day from Florence (aprox. 20 minutes) and 3 times from Greve in Chianti (aprox. 30 minutes). Radda in Chianti can be arrived by bus from Castellina in Chianti (aprox. 10 minutes), Siena (aprox. 1 hour) and Florence (aprox. 1 hour 40 minutes). There are also buses from Gaiole in Chianti to Siena (aprox. 40 minutes) and from Castellina in Chianti to Siena (aprox. minutes).
  
• Car: if you rented a car, Greve in Chianti can be reached from Florence (aprox. 45 minutes), San Gimignano (aprox. 55 minutes), Siena (aprox. 55 minutes) or Arezzo (aprox. 1 hour 10 minutes). From there, the visitor can go to other towns and villages in Chianti such as Panzano in Chianti (aprox. 10 minutes), Badia a Passignano (aprox. 20 minutes), Castellina in Chianti (aprox. 25 minutes), Radda in Chianti (aprox. 25 minutes), San Casciano in Val di Pesa (aprox. 25 minutes) or Gaiole in Chianti (aprox. 35 minutes).
  

History

  The earliest documentation of a Chianti wine dates back to the 13th century when viticulture flourished around Florence. The merchants in Castellina, Gaiole and Radda formed the Lega del Chianti (League of Chianti) to produce and promote the local wine. In 1398, records note that the earliest incarnation of Chianti was as a white wine. In 1716 Cosimo III de' Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany issued an edict legislating that the three villages of the Lega del Chianti and Greve in Chianti were the only officially recognised producers of Chianti (delineation that remained unchanged until 1932, when the Italian government expanded it to include the outlying areas of Barberino Val d'Elsa, Chiocchio, Robbiano, San Casciano in Val di Pesa and Strada). By the 18th century, Chianti was widely recognised as a red wine and in the late 19th century Chianti saw a period of economic and political upheaval (first with oidium and then the phylloxera epidemic), taking Italian vineyard workers and winemakers abroad as immigrants. Following the WW2 the general trend in the world wine market for cheap, easy-drinking wine saw a brief boom for the region but with over-cropping and an emphasis on quantity over quality, the reputation of Chianti among consumers eventually plummeted. In 1967, the Denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) regulation set by the Italian government firmly established the "Ricasoli formula" of a Sangiovese-based blend with 10–30% Malvasia and Trebbiano. By the late 20th century, Chianti was often associated with basic Chianti sold in a squat bottle enclosed in a straw basket, called a fiasco. However, during the same period, a group of ambitious producers began working outside the boundaries of DOC regulations to make what they believed would be a higher quality wine. These wines eventually became known as the "Super Tuscans". The late 20th century saw a flurry of creativity and innovation in the Chianti zones as producers experimented with new grape varieties and introduced modern wine-making techniques such as the use of new oak barrels.

 
 

 

What can I visit in Chianti?

These are many things to do in the area, explained now according to the town where they are or the nearest one:     

Castle of Gabbiano


• San Casciano In Val di Pesa (17,129 inhabitants): town that is an important center of the local wine and olive oil industry. It doesn't have many touristic points because it was almost totally destroyed in 1944.
  
  • Castle of Bibbione: castle built before 1000 that belonged to the Buondelmonti family. In the 16th century it passed to the Machiavelli family who kept it as hunting manor till 1727. The castle has magnificent courtyards and halls and from outside it has an impressive shape Nowadays it's used as accomodation. 
  • Castle of Gabbiano: castle built int the 11th century and enlarged in the 13th century by the Bardi family of Florence. The rounded towers of  French influence were added in 1505. Today it houses a winery and an accomodation.
    

  

  St. Pancrazio Church
  

  • Giuliano Ghelli Museum (10-13 and 16-19 Thu-Sunfrom Mar to Oct; 10-13 and 15-18 Thu-Sun from Nov to Feb; ): small museum placed at the former church of the Suffragio that houses a collecction of sacred art from the Vicariate of San Casciano. It has paintings, furnishings, sculptures and a lot of sacred vestments from the churches of the area.
    
  • St. Pancrazio Church: Lombard Romanesque church that houses on its interior a Madonna with Child of Agnolo Gaddi's school and a Crucifixion by Santi di Tito.
    
  • St. Cecilia in Decimo Church: church that is probably the oldest in the area (was mentioned in a document by Charlemagne in 774 AD). It was heavily restored in 1728. At the main altar there is a 16th century Madonna and Child and at the first altar on the right, a detached fresco by Cenni di Francesco. 
    

  

  Antinori nel Chianti Classico

  • Going out of Greve 7 km it can be reached Bargino (291 people), village where finding an important winery, Antinori nel Chianti Classico (Via Cassia per Siena 133). This winery with a contemporary design offers guided tours on its intallations and wine tasting and its familly, Antinori, has been working with wine since 1180.
    
• Driving 15 km south it can be found Tavarnelle Val di Pesa (7,346 inhabitants). The main attraction of the territory of Tavarnelle is the Badia di Passignano (see below) although it has another interesting churches: St. Pietro in Bossolo Church, a Romanesque church first built in the year 990 houses works from Roman, Byzantine and Florentine schools, and St. Lucia al Borghetto Church, a Gothic church located next to a Franciscan convent built after the visit of San Francesco d'Assisi in 1220.
  

• 

  Piazza Giacomo Mateotti
  

  Greve in Chianti (13,829 inhabitants): largest town in the Florentine part of Chianti, center of the local winery industry. It isn't the most beautiful place in the area because most of its architecture is modern but it can be interesting to visit it, visiting the main square in town (Piazza Giacomo Mateotti) and some interesting wineries.
  
  • Museum of Sacred Art of Greve in Chianti (16-19 Tue-Fri, 10-13 and 16-19 Sat-Sun from Apr to Oct; 10-13 and 15-18 Sun from Nov to Mar): museum located in the complex of the former convent of St. Francesco with sacre art works like a Della Robbia garland, a 15th century marble bas-relief, ancient fabrics and church furnishings, goldsmiths, chalices, pyxes, monstrances.
  • Basilica of St. Croce: basilica first built in the 11th century, destroyed by Castruccio Castracani (Duke of Lucca) in 1325 with Neoclassical façade and paintings of the school of Fra Angelico.

    

    Wine Museum
    

    
    
  • Wine Museum (included in tours visiting Enoteca Falorni): small museum with a collection of objects and images that tells the story of Greve's viticulture.
    
  • Greve has a variety of wineries and enotecas that are worth to be visited. Some of the most popular ones are Vignamaggio (Via Petriolo 5), winery that offeres cooking classes, wine tasting located on a 14th century villa that belonged to the family of Mona Lisa's husband and where Much Ado About Nothing was filmed; Enoteca Falorni (Piazza delle Cantine 6), winery with more than 1000 different wines to taste; and Castello di Verrazzano (Via Castello di Verrazzano 1), winery placed in a castle that belonged to Giovanni da Verrazzano (sailor who explored part of the coast of North Amercia in the 16th century) where having different tours that include wine tasting and visiting the winery (it's recommend to book them on advance).

    

    Views of Montefioralle
    

    
    
  • Going out of Greve 2 km it can be reached Montefioralle (79 people), very picturesque village that is considered the oldest in Chianti and birth place of Amerigo Vespucci, explorer whose name was used to name the continent of America. Here it can be visite St. Stefano a Montefioralle Church, church that was built in Gothic structure and remodeled with the addition of Baroque altars and other renovations in the 19th century. It has valuable works like a canvas by Orazio Fidani or the main altar attributed to the Master of the Epiphany of Fiesole.
    
• Panzano in Chianti (1,161 inhabitants): small town (frazione of Greve in Chianti) that keeps its original medieval outlook.

  

  Church of St. Leolino a Panzano
  

  
  
  • Church of St. Leolino a Panzano (7:30-12): Romanesque church in the outskirts of Panzano with important works like the 15th century polyptych Madonna in trono col Bambino e due angeli by Mariotto di Nardo, two terracotta tabernacles by Giovanni della Robbia or a 13th century tryptych Madonna col Bambino tra i Santi Caterina, Pietro e Paolo by the master of Panzano. It's considered one of the most beautiful churches in Chianti.
  • The town has other interesting churches like St. Maria Church (church that was done in Renaissance style but reformed in the late 19th century, having since then Neo-Romanesque style) or Sant'Eufròsino Chapel (Gothic-Renaissance style chapel that appears in the Un cappello pieno di ciliegie book by Oriana Fallaci).
    
  • The town is manly known by the butcher's owned by Dario Cecchini (a Tuscan celebrity), L'Antica Macelleria Cecchini (Via XX Luglio 11).



Badia a Passignano


• Not far from Greve in Chianti and Panzano in Chianti there's the village of Badia a Passignano, tiny village built around an historic Benedictine abbey located atop a scenic hilltop surrounded by cypresses and vineyards owned by Antinori family. It can be visited St. Michele Arcangelo Church (10-12 and 15-17:30 Fri-Sat and Mon-Wed, 15-17:30 Sun from Apr to Oct),church first founded in the 11th century and destroyed in the 13th century, having been rebuilt and modified with time. Next to the main alter there's a 12th century statue representing St. Michael the Archangel and it has nice frescoes on its abse done by Il Passignano. Passignano Abbey (10-12 and 15-17:30 Fri-Sat and Mon-Wed, 15-17:30 Sun from Apr to Oct; donation) can also be visited. Four monks still live here and give guided tours of the abbey, whose highlights are the 15th century refectory with the painting L'Ultima Cena by Domenico Ghirlandaio and its gardens. It's recommended to book the tour on advance. The small village has also a winery, La Bottega di Badia a Possignano (Via di Passignano 33), where getting Antinori wines, doing a wine tasting or guided tours in the winery and the vineyards.
  
• Castellina in Chianti (2,859 inhabitants): town with a long history (founded by Etruscans), important wine center and a nice stop in the way between Siena and Florence. It may be considered the most important town of Chianti in the province of Siena.

  

  Archaeological Museum
  of the Sienese Chianti
  

  • Archaeological Museum of the Sienese Chianti (11-19 from Jun to Aug; 10-18 from Apr to May and from Sep to Oct; 5€/ 3€  adults/ reduced): small museum with intereting Etruscan pieces, tombs and remains found in the area of Chianti located in the province of Siena. Most of the archaeological pieces come from Montecalvario Tombs, group of Etruscan tombs from the 8th century BC on the outskirts of the town. It's located in part of the Castle of Castellina in Chianti (11-19), a 14th century rocca from where getting great views of Chianti.
  • Bianciardi Palace: palazzo from the 15th century that belonged to Bianciardi family and that hosted Pope Leo X, on his journeys to Rome (out of gratitude he provided the Medici coat of arms in the palace). Some members of the Bianciardi family continue to live here.
  • St. Salvador Church: early 15th century church . It has a nice fresco of Madonna with Child and a polychrome wooden statue of Christ, both from the 15th century.
    
  • Outside the town there's a nice walk by Via delle Volte, enjoying the medieval heritage in the town.



Palazzo del Podestà


• Radda in Chianti (1,587 inhabitants): small and beautiful town with old buildings and a nice main square, Piazza F. Ferrucci. It's also the site of Consorzio di Chianti Classico.
  
  • Palazzo del Podestà: 15th century palace destroyed in 1478 and rebuilt in the 16th century, used as seat of the Captain of the Chianti League for four centuries. The Florentine portico belongs to the primitive building and its façade has 51 coats of arms. Under the loggia there is a fresco of the Florentine school dating back to the 16th century.
    
  • Chianti Classico House (11:30-13 and 15-18 Mon-Sat from Apr to Oct; free): museum, placed in a 18th century monastery and controlled by Consorzio di Chianti Classico, that teaches about this wine and its history of the DOC. It can be visited the wine museum (booking on advance), wine tasting and wine tasting classes. It's also home of an enoteca and a restaurant.

  

  Castello di Volpaia

  • St. Niccolò Church: Neo-Romanesque church that was first built in the 13th century, having undergone various transformations over the centuries. The characteristic façade is a typical example of the application of the taste of late historicist eclecticism in the smaller towns of Tuscany.
    
  • Only 7 km north from Radda it's located Volpaia (44 people). Here there are many nice Tuscan restaurants and the winery Castello di Volpaia (Volpaia), with the possibility of doing a wine tasting or visiting the winery. There's a nice church here, Sant'Eufrosino Church, a Renaissance building that is home of the nice Madonna col Bambino tra i Santi Eufrosino e Giovanni battista by Cosimo Rosselli.
• Gaiole in Chianti (2,756 inhabitants): nice small town surrounded by interesting rural churches and castles. It was named number 1 by Forbes on in its list of "Europe's Most Idyllic Places To Live".
  

  • St. Sigismondo Church: Neogothic church, considered the main church in Gaiole.
    
  • San Polo in Rosso Castle: 14th century defensive structure placed in a 18th century villa where Barons of Ricasoli resided until they sold the entire complex in 1974. In the complex can also be found St. Polo in Rosso Church, a Romanesque-Gothich church dating from the 12th century with a nice interior.
    

  • 

    Castello di Brolio
    

    Gaiole has a lot of castle around it that has now been turnt into wineries and are worth to be visited. Some of the most popular ones are: Castello di Ama, 12th century estate with vineyard and a winery that also offers a rural hotel or some impressing sculptures by artists like Louise Bourgeois, Anish Kapoor or Kendell Geers; Castello di Brolio, 11th century estate that belongs to Ricasoli family and has the oldest winery in Italy. There's a guided tour (10:30-12:30 and 14:30-17 Tue-Sun; 8€) that allows visit a museum to know more about Bettino Ricasoli (2nd Primer Minister of Italy, vital figure in the Risorgimento and inventor of the formula for Chianti Classico), the 14th century chapel where most of Ricasoli family is buried; it can also be visited the vineyard, its winery and tasting its wine. 

    

    Sculpture at Chianti Sculpture Park
    

    
    
  • Outside the village (11 km) there's the village of Pievasciata (134 inhabitants), that has a lot of outdoors sculptures. Very close to here it can be visited Chianti Sculpture Park (10-sunset; 10€/ 5€  adults/ kids), park with Contemporary works of art created by 24 international artists. The most popular one is, specially for kids, the crystal labyrinth by Jeff Saward.
    

 

Where can I drink and eat in Chianti?

Chianti Classico Gallo Nero

The main touristic attraction in Chianti is its wine. The traditional Chianti area is the one that has been discussed in this post, known as Chianti Classico, whose wine is known as Chianti Classico Gallo Nero. Chianti DOG has been expanded with years, reaching the provinces of Arezzo, Prato, Pistoia or Pisa. 

A wine that wants to be called Chianti has to contain at least an 80% of wine from Sangiovese grape (in can be mixted with wine from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Syrah grapes; 100% Sangiovese wines weren't allowed until 1995). The traditional receipe of Chianti was created by Baron Bettino Ricasoli (later PM of the Kingdom of Italy) in the middle of the 19th century, consisting of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo and 15% Malvasia bianca.

There are different kinds of Chianti wine, according to different criteria: the wine that fulfill less requirements is named Chianti, the ones that follow tougher requirements (lower yield, higher alcohol content and dry extract) are named Chianti Superiore (although wines from Chianti Classico can't be Chianti Superiore) and the wine that is aged more time (38 months instead of 7 months) is called Chianti Riserva.

San Casciano In Val di Pesa has some nice traditional restaurants such as Villa I Barronci (Via Sorripa 10), Rinuccio 1180 (Via Cassia per Siena 133 in Bargino) or L'Osteria di Casa Chianti (Via Lucardese 82 in Certaldo), although another choice can be going back to Florence to eat.

Greve in Chianti has some interesting places to eat such as Bistro Falorni (Piazza Giacomo Matteotti 71). Here there's also a shop where buying traditional food and cold meat from Chianti, Antica Macelleria Falorni (Piazza Giacomo Matteotti 71). In case of going to Monterioralle it's a good idea to eat at La Castellana (Via di Montefioralle 2). If you decide to visit Panzano in Chianti the best idea is trying one of the three restaurants that belong to Dario Cecchini, whose food is based on meat: Officina della Bistecca (Via XX Luglio 11), Solociccia (Via XX Luglio 11) or Diario DOC (Via XX Luglio 11).

In case of visiting Badia di Passignano there's a important culinary offer (specially compared with the size of the site) with Tuscan traditional restaurants like L'Antica Scuderia (Via di Passignano 17) and La Cantinetta di Regnana (Via Rignana 13 in Greve in Chianti), or the modern restaurant Osteria di Passignano (Via di Passignano 33).

Castellina in Chianti has some nice Tuscan traditional restaurants like Taverna Squarcialupi (Via Ferruccio 26) or Ristorante Albergaccio (Via Fiorentina 63). In case of wanting to buy wine, the most popular shop for that is Antica Fattoria la Castellina (Viale della Rimembranza 28).

If you are in Radda in Chianti and your budget is high, it can be tried the nice La Botte di Bacco (Viale XX Settembre 23). But it can also be a good idea to go to Volpaia to eat at Bar Ucci (Piazza Della Torre 9), osteria Volpaia (Vicolo della Torre 2) or the Tuscan restaurant La Bottega (Piazza della Torre 1).

In Gaiole in Chianti it's a good idea eating at Castello di Brolio, either at Osteria del Castello or tasting and buying wines at Cantina Barone Ricasoli, or at Castello di Ama.

Read more »

Posted in: Europe,Italy,Tuscany