Friday, 14 May 2021

Marneuli

Marneuli (მარნეული in Georgian, Sarvan in Azeri, Марнеули in Russian) is a 20,211 inhabitants town and 2nd largest town in the region of Kvemo Kartli, in the south of Georgia. The town is mostly inhabited by Georgian Azerbaijanis (83%) and is situated very close to the borders with Armenia and Azerbaijan. Some  consider  Marneuli as the capital of Azeri-populated Georgia.

  

 How do I arrive to Marneuli?

  Marneuli isn't very well connected with other towns in Georgia, despite being an important transit city on the way to Armenia.
  • Bus: there are marshutkas that stop in Marneuli from Tbilisi (hourly; aprox. 1 hour 15 minutes), or some to Bolnisi or Tetri Tskaro. The minibuses that go from Tbilisi to Yerevan (Armenia) usually stop in Marneuli.
  • Car: if you rented a car, from Marneuli it can be reached Bolnisi (aprox. 30 minutes), Tetri Tskaro (aprox. 45 minutes), Tbilisi (aprox. 1 hour), Manglisi (aprox. 1 hour 5 minutes) in Algeti National Park, Rustavi (aprox. 1 hour 10 minutes), Dmanisi (aprox. 1 hour 15 minutes), Mtskheta (aprox. 1 hour 20 minutes), Tsalka (aprox. 1 hour 30 minutes), or Ninotsminda (aprox. 2 hours 35 minutes).  

History

In the north of Marneuli a major battle of Georgian troops with the Iranian conquerors took place in 1625, with the Iranian victory and they entering Tbilisi. Another battle took place here in the Georgian-Armenian war of 1918, with the city remaining in the Georgian-Armenian neutral zone and subsequently incorporated into Georgia after the armistice. Before 1947 the town was known as Borchali. The name of the town was changed to Sarvan between 1947 and 1952 (still used in some contexts) and it gained the official status of a town in 1964. Marneuli is the site of a Georgian military air base and therefore, this base was bombed during the Russo-Georgian War (reportedly leaving 4 dead).
 

What can I visit in Marneuli?

  Marneuli isn't very touristic and there aren't many things to do here, but Marneuli can be a good base to explore most of Kvemo Kartli.
These are Marneuli's main attractions:
  • Imam-Ali Mosque: mosque that was first founded in 1739 and rebuilt several time, the last one in 2000.
  • Imam-Husein Mosque: mosque first built in 1920, whose style follows the tradition of Iranian and Central Asian mosques.
  • Kolagiri Fortress: fortress that was one of the last fortresses built in Kartli-Kakheti, built by Queen Darejan in the 18th century. As many other castles, it lost its function in the beginning of the 19th century. It keeps its cylindrical towers in the corners, with one rectangular in the center of the east and west walls.
  • In the south of Marneuli, close to the border with Armenia, there are some things to do. Two of them are Shulaveri Fortress and Gagi Fortress. This latter are the ruins of a fortress first mentioned in sources in the 11th century, known from the 15th century as Agjakali, the main fortress by the Armenians in the late Middle Ages).
  • A bit further, but still by the border with Armenia, it's located Tserakvi Monastery, a monastic complex dating from the 12th-13th century that has a three-nave hall church with inscriptions from the 15th century, a smaller church, a bell tower and fragments of a defensive wall too. Not far from there are the Ruins of Tsopi Fortress, remains of a fortress that functioned between the 6th and 13th centuries, mainly used by Armenians.
Imam-Husein Mosque
Kolagiri Fortress

Samshvilde Canyon
In order to get deeper into Kvemo Kartli, 40 km far from Marneuli, it's located Tetri Tskaro (თეთრი წყარო in Georgian, formerly Ağbulaq), 3,093 inhabitants. In the town it can be seen a 19th century
cross-domed  church erected by the Russian colonizers, St. Nikolozis Georgian Orthodox Church. Close to this town, the visitor arrives to Samshvilde Canyon, a part of Khrami gorge in the area around confluence of the rivers Khrami and Chivchavi, created by erosion in the volcanic plateau and with spectacular views. In the canyon it's also located Samshvilde, a ruined fortified city and archaeological site that is regarded as one of the oldest fortified cities in ancient Kartli, dating back to the 3rd century BC. Samshvilde changed hands several times (being capital of the Armenian kings of Tashir-Dzoraget, then incorporated in the Kingdom of Georgia, falling into decline from the 13th century onwards, being in ruins by the 18th century.. Some of the most recognizable monuments are the Samshvilde Sioni Church (ruined medieval Christian cathedral with a centralized domed built in the 8th century) and a citadel erected on a rocky river promontory.
Pitareti Monastery
Another religious sight close to Tetri Tskaro is Gudarekhi Monastery, 13th century Georgian Orthodox monastery that king Rostom granted the monastery to the princely family of Germanozishvili in 1643, abandoned after the decline of the family and the village the following century. The monastery complex consists of the main hall church with stone-carvings and inscriptions in Georgian asomtavruli script (the interior is painted with the partially faded frescoes), a free-standing bell-tower (the oldest extant dated bell-tower in Georgia, completed in 1278), and ruins of various structures. Further it's situated Pitareti Monastery, a Georgian Orthodox monastic complex with origin in the 13th century, property and a burial ground of the noble family of Kachibadze-Baratashvili and then, the princes Orbelishvili. Its design shares a common features with other Georgian monasteries (such as Betania, Kvatakhevi, and Timotesubani), with its façades decorated and remains of damaged murals in its interior.

Bolnisi Sioni Cathedral
Driving 23 km west, it can be a good idea stopping at Bolnisi (ბოლნისი in Georgian, Bolnissi in German, formerly
Katharinenfeld and Luxembourg), a town with 8,967 people in the heart of Kvemos Kartli and a former settlement of Caucasus Germans. The colony Katharinenfeld was founded in Bolnisi in 1818 by German colonist families from Swabia (between current Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria). All the Germans descendants who were not married to Georgians were deported in 1941 to Siberia. There are still remnants of the German past in Bolnisi with 19th century German architecture and old houses (some of them in a very poor state of preservation). The visitor who is interested in the history of Bolnisi and the Germans in Georgia can visit Bolnisi Museum (10-18 Tue-Sun; 5₾/ 0.50₾  adults/ students and kids) to get more information on those topics. But the main highlight in here is Bolnisi Sioni Cathedral, a Georgian Orthodox cathedral was built in 5th century (oldest extant church building in Georgia) under Bishop David, seat of the bishop of Bolnisi.
German style house in Asureti
Its architecture was heavily influeced by Sasanian style, but also from Armeanian architecture. Some parts of the church are adorned with curling vine scrolls, arabesques, and foliate motifs. This temple is known for its Bolnisi inscriptions, Old Georgian inscriptions written in asomtavruli script dated to 494 AD.
Not far from here is Tsughrughasheni Georgian Orthodox Church, a church was built in the 13th century by king George IV Lasha that resembles stylistically the other Georgian churches from the same period, but is smaller and has a higher cupola. Another town that was settled with Germans was Asureti (ასურეთი in Georgian, Assureti in German, formerly Elisabethtal), 978 inhabitants village that was founded by German families in 1818 too. This village has some German architecture and buildings, such as typical half-timbered house (Fachwerkhaus), remains of the German church built in 1871 or a cemetery for Germans.

Dmanisi Museum-Reserve
Continuing on the road that took you to Bolnisi during 35 km it can be reached Dmanisi (დმანისი in Georgian, Başkeçid in Azeri), a small town with 2,661 people. One of the best choices to stop and learn more about the wine culture, history and traditions of Kakheti is the Dmanisi Museum-Reserve (10-17 Tue-Sun;
3₾/ 0.50₾  adults/ students), an open-air museum and archaeological site where it has been found the oldest evidence of humans discovered outside of Africa, dating back 1.8 million years, that correspond to a subspecies of Homo erectus (Homo erectus georgicus). It also contains an exhibition hall displaying more than 2300 artifacts found in this archaeological site. This site has been placed in UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List since 2007. Here it can also de found Dmanisi Sioni Cathedral,
Dmanisi Sioni Cathedral
three-church basilica with a prominently protruding apse, and a richly adorned narthex added in the early 13th century (with inscriptions in Georgian asomtavruli script). The inner walls were once fully frescoed (keeping only badly damaged 13th-14th-century wall paintings). Its origin is thought to be founded in the 9th century and worked as seat of an episcopal see till 1750 and from 2003 onwards. It's believed that it served as burial ground to king Vakhtang III of Georgia (the tomb hasn't survived). The complex has the ruins of one of the most important towns and commercial centres in medieval Georgia, Dmanisi, with fortifications, churches, Muslim and Christian cemeteries, bathhouses, and workshops.

Where can I eat in Marneuli?

  Marneuli doesn't have many places to eat but it can be a good idea trying Azerbaijani food here.

Thursday, 13 May 2021

Lagodekhi National Park

Lagodekhi National Park (also know as ლაგოდეხის სახელმწიფო ნაკრძალი in Georgian) is a 244 km² park situated in the northeastern part of Georgia, in the region of Kakheti. It's situated in the southern slopes of the Caucasus, in the border with Azerbaijan and the Republic of Dagestan (Russia). This park is considered one of the best-preserved in the country because of its remote position, having impressing deep river valleys, glacial lakes and some of Georgia’s best-preserved forests.

 

How do I arrive to Lagodekhi National Park?

  Despite its geographical position, Lagodekhi National Park isn't bad communicated with other places in Georgia and Azerbaijan.
  • Bus: there are marshrutkas departing from Lagodekhi's bus station to destinations such as Telavi (five daily; aprox. 1 hour 45 minutes) or Tbilisi (every hour; aprox. 2 hours 30 minutes).
  • Car: Lagodekhi National Park can be reached from places such as Kvareli and Sighnaghi (aprox. 45 minutes), Gurjaani (aprox. 50 minutes), Dedoplis Tskaro (aprox. 1 hour), Telavi (aprox. 1 hour 15 minutes), or Vashlovani National Park (aprox. 1 hour 50 minutes). Lagodekhi can also be reached from Azerbaijan, some places here such as Balakən (aprox. 25 minutes) or Zaqatala (aprox. 1 hour 30 minutes).
  Once in the Park the best ways to move around the park are the car or simply hiking.

History

Lagodekhi was founded in the 8th century, under the name of Lakuasti, when the eristavi Archil I ordered to build a fortress here. Lagodekhi was an important monastery in the historical region of Hereti in the 11th century. The territory of Lagodekhi was devastated after the invasion of the Persian Shah Abbas in the 1610s. The military settlement of Lagodekhi was founded in 1830 as a stronghold on the Lezgin cordon line, headquarters of a regiment until 1917 (next to the regiment itself a small settlement began). Lagodekhi Nature Reserve was founded here in 1912 and from 1930, Lagodekhi became the center of its district and gained town status in 1962.

What can I visit in Lagodekhi National Park?

  Lagodekhi National Park is a nice place to explore a variety of rare local flora and fauna, part of the  Caucasus mixed forests. Now it will be explained what to do in the park according to the town or village where they are or the nearest one:    
  • Lagodekhi (სტეფანწმინდა in Georgian, Степанцминда in Russian, formerly Kazbegi): 1,326 inhabitants small town by river Terek in the north of region of Mtskheta-Mtianeti, close to border with Russia. The town is the capital of the historical-geographic area of Khevi.
    • Lagodekhi Monastery: remains of a two-nave basilica of the 6th-7th centuries. It was destroyed after the expeditions of Abbas I, Shah of Persia, in the 17th century and inactive since this period. A text in asomtavruli Georgian was recently discovered, mentioning king Adarnase of Hereti.
    • Lagodekhi Local Museum (10-18 Tue-Sun; 1): museum that introduces the visitor to the history of the town of Lagodekhi and this part of Georgia. It houses artefacts from the Neolithic, ethnographic items, military equipment, photographies of Lagodekhi and its people, or coins from different periods.
    • Lagodekhi National Park Administration and Visitor Center (9-18 Mon-Fri, 9-16 Sat-Sun): office where getting registered to get into the national park and getting some information about the area.
    • From Lagodekhi departs Rocho Waterfall Trail (4.3 km), a hike through an untouched broad-leaved forest, crossing the noisy Shromaiskhevi river and enjoying small waterfalls, to finally arrive to Rocho Waterfall (6 m high).
  • The longest and probably most interesting hike in the national park is Black Rock Lake Route (37.9 km). This round hike is one of the most interesting trails in all of Georgia and is distinguished by its astounding views of the Alazani Valley and the Caucasus mountains that finished at Shavi Kldeebis Lake, lake that works as natural border between Georgia and Daghestan (Russia). Visitors can observe rare animals such as deers, chamois and wild goat. There are two shelters to have some rest during the trip (Demidov Hut Shelter and Meteo Shelter) and it's only possible to be done from June to October.
  • There are other possibilities of hiking within the national park. One of them is the nice Ninoskhevi Waterfall Trail (7.6 km), a narrow path by river Ninoskhevi river that finishes at Ninoskhevi Waterfall, a 40 m long waterfall which is one of the most beautiful in Georgia. The other one is Machi Castle Trail (4.3 km), a shot trail by the border with Azerbaijan that reaches Machi Castle, the ruins of a remarkable medieval fortress of Kakheti from the 11th century.
Shavi Kldeebis Lake
Ninoskhevi Waterfall

Where can I eat in Lagodekhi National Park?

The main places to eat in Lagodekhi National Park are located in Lagodekhi.

Wednesday, 12 May 2021

Tusheti National Park

Tusheti National Park (also know as ყაზბეგის ეროვნული პარკი in Georgian) is a 1,446.2 km² park situated in the north of Georgia, just in the border with Russia (in the Republic of North Ossetia-Alania). The park is located in the north of the region Mtskheta-Mtianeti and is a popular touristic destination in Georgia.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bats_people#The_decline_of_the_Bats/Tsova-Tush_language


How do I arrive to Tusheti National Park?

  Kazbegi National Park isn't bad communicated because it's close to the road that connects Georgia and Russia.
  • Train: there are slow trains that links Tbilisi and Kars (Turkey) that stop in Akhalkalaki.
  • Bus: there are marshrutkas departing from Ninotsminda's bus station to destinations such as Akhalkalaki or Akhaltsikhe. From Akhalkalaki there are also marshrutkas to Akhaltsikhe (aprox. 3 hours), Tbilisi (aprox. 4 hours) or Gymri in Armenia.
  • Car: Mtirala National Park can be reached from places such as Kobuleti (aprox. 50 minutes), Batumi (aprox. 55 minutes), Ozurgeti (aprox. 1 hour 10 minutes), Poti (aprox. 1 hour 20 minutes) in the Kolkheti National Park, Machakhela National Park (aprox. 1 hour 30 minutes) and Kintrishi National Park (aprox. 1 hour 50 minutes).
  Once in the Park the best ways to move around the park are the car or simply hiking.

History

The national park is aimed at the conservation of the natural situation, but projects are also being carried out in the field of drinking water supply, energy, livestock farming, the sale of local products and tourism. The area contains five of the eight largest lakes in the country and further includes grasslands on mountain slopes. The Javakheti National Park was designated in 2011, part of a transnational protected area (joining Lake Arpi National Park in Armenia). The visitor and administration building of the Javakheti National Park (Akhalkalaki) was built and financed with the support of WWF and Germany.

What can I visit in Tusheti National Park?

  Kazbegi National Park is a nice place to explore the volcanic Javakheti Plateau and its trails. Now it will be explained what to do in the park according to the town or village where they are or the nearest one:    
  • Stepantsminda (სტეფანწმინდა in Georgian, Степанцминда in Russian, formerly Kazbegi): 1,326 inhabitants small town by river Terek in the north of region of Mtskheta-Mtianeti, close to border with Russia. The town is the capital of the historical-geographic area of Khevi.
    • St. Sarki Armenian Orthodox Church: simple church built in 1884 in dark stones.
    • Monument of the Great Patriotic War: monument from Soviet times that conmemorates the victory of the Soviet Union in WW2. The text and its names are written in Armenian.
    • Next to Ninotsminda there's Khanchali Managed Reserve, one of the reserves in the park that is located around Khanchali Lake. This wetland designated as Ramsar site provides habitat to many bird in summer (like the long-legged buzzard or the green warbler), and in winter it's covered with ice.
    • Another interesting activity here is taking Tiger Canyon Trail (12.3 km). This trail follows the eastern ridge of the Tiger Canyon and ends with a panoramic view. This place has its name because of the landscape around it, which looks like a tiger stripe. The trail can be extended in the direction of the mountain, where the border of three countries meets (Georgia-Armenia-Turkey).
  • Going 12 km from Ninotsminda it can be found Gorelovka (გორელოვკა in Georgian, Գորելովկա in Armenian), 1,165 inhabitants. It was founded by Doukhobors, a spiritual Christian religious group of Russian origin (although most of them left Gorelovka in the 1990s). Close to this town it's located Bughdasheni Managed Reserve, a protected area that protects the mostly swampy Bugdasheni Lake. Its ecosystem is undergoing restoration (rich in fish, including trout, and part of the year to many species of migratory birds) and has been designated as a Ramsar site in 2020. It's possible to have a small walk around it, taking Bughdasheni Lake Trail (3 km). Not far from here is Madatapa Managed Reserve around Madatapa Lake. It's one of the most important sites in Georgia for breeding and staging waterbirds (like the Dalmatian pelican).
  • Another of the reserves within the national park is Sulda Managed Reserve, that protects some marsh wetlands. The visitor can take the nice Sulda Wetlands Trail (5 km), a short hike where observing birds or riding horses that ends at the swamp.
  • The largest part of the national park is situated around Kartsakhi Lake (Lake Aktaş in Turkish), an alkaline lake that is the 2nd largest lake in Georgia (in the international border between Georgia and Turkey). During the rainy season its excess water discharges to the river Kura. The area around it is protected by Kartsakhi Managed Reserve. To discover a bit more the nature of the lake and all its flora and fauna, it's highly advisable to take Kartsakhi Lake Trail (6.9 km). In the village of Kartsakhi (კარწახი in Georgian, Կարծախ in Armenian), 776 inhabitants, it's located Jivani House-Museum (10:30-17 Tue-Sun), a museum where the Armenian poet Jivani (regarded as the greatest Armenian ashugh of the 19th century) was born. Close to it, Mineskh Forest is located (one of the few forests in the area).

Pankisi Gorge
Just 15 km north from Akhmeta it's a very good idea to explore Pankisi Gorge, a valley region in the south of the etnographic region of Tusheti that is mainly inhabited by an ethnic group of Chechen roots, the Kists. This are is still home to many Chechen refugees, and probably the safest place to experience Chechen culture. This people are typically bilingual in Chechen and Georgian, predominantly of Sunni Islam religion. Its main village is Duisi (
დუისი in Georgian, Дуй-Юрт in Chechen), a small town of 2,354 people where finding most of the mosques of the valley. Among them, the most outstanding one is Duisi Old Mosque, mosque built in 1902 (oldest in Pankisi Gorge) with a brick-lined minaret. The gorge is of huge natural beauty and there are many choices for doing activities related to nature. It has the impressing Khadori Waterfall, Batsara Strict Nature Reserve (a protected area by on the bank of Alazani River where enjoying, among others, 2000-year-old yew trees) or the last day of the Datijvari Pass-Tbatana Route (55 km) on its territory.

Where can I eat in Tusheti National Park?

The main places to eat in Tusheti National Park are located in Stepantsminda.

 
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