Thursday 31 October 2019

Lucca


Lucca is a 88,397 inhabitants city by Serchio river in the northern part of Tuscany, in Italy. It's also the capital city of the province of Luca and its most inhabited city. The city is well known for it Renaissance-era city walls and its Piazza dell'Anfiteatro, eliptical shape square built over the Roman amphitheatre in Lucca.


How do I arrive to Lucca?

  Lucca is an important city in Tuscany so the ways to arrive here are diverse. 
  • Train: there are frequent trains to Florence (aprox. 1 hour 45 minutes), Pisa (aprox. 30 minutes) or Viareggio (aprox. 25 minutes) from Lucca. It's also possible reaching Pietrasanta from Lucca (aprox. 1 hour), Pisa (aprox. 30 minutes) or Viareggio (aprox. 10 minutes)
  • Bus: there are many buses from Lucca to all over the region like Pisa (aprox. 45 minutes).
  • Car: if you rented a car from Lucca you can reach Pisa in 30 minutes, Pietrasanta and Pistoia in 40 minutes, Massa and Carrara in 45 minutes, Livorno in 50 minutes, Prato in 1 hour and Florence in 1 hour 15 minutes.

History

 Lucca was founded by the Etruscans (there are even traces of a previous Ligurian settlement) and since 180 BC it became a Roman colony. It's Roman heritage can be seen in Piazza dell'Anfiteatro or in St. Michele in Foro Church. Here it was signed the alliance known as the First Triumvirate by Julius Caesar, Pompey and Crassus. St. Fridianus (an Irish monk) was bishop of Lucca in the early 6th century and that century it was also besieged by Narses, a Byzantine general. Here arrived the Holy Face of Lucca (or Volto Santo) a relic supposedly carved by Nicodemus (although it dates back to the 13th century). Since the 10th century it was the capital city of the March of Tuscany. After Matilda of Tuscany's death the city became independent. The time of its brillance came with Castruccio Castracani (when it became the leading state in central Italy) and with Paolo Guinigi's promotion of arts. It was the 2nd comune (after Venice) that remained independent over the centuries till in 1805 it was conquered by Napoleon and afterwars it became part of the Bourbon-Parma duchy, till in 1847 it was annexed to the Grand Duchwy of Tuscany. Giacomo Puccini was born here in 1858.

 

What can I visit in Lucca?

The city is very nice to walk in and has some very wonderful places like Via Fillungobut without any kind of doubt the most impressing one is Piazza dell'Anfiteatro, one of the most beautiful in Tuscany.
These are Lucca's main attractions:
    • Lucca City Walls: 4.2 km long city walls built between the 16th and 17th centuries (replacing the old ones, some of them dating back to the 2nd centruy BC), remaining in an almost perfect state of conservation. They have a path with trees on its top and nice views of Lucca's Old Town and the Apuan Alps.
    • Lucca Cathedral (9:30-18:30 Mon-Fri, 12-18:30 Sat-Sun from Mar to Nov; 10-17 Mon-Fri, 12-17 from Dec to Feb; 3): 11th century Pisan Romanesque style duomo built to join the existing bell tower. Its façade is impressing and is attributed to Nicola Pisa. The interior has interesting sculptures like the crucifix Volto Santo or a 14th century tomb in the sacristy. Other important works of arts are Ultima Cena by Tintoretto or Madonna and Child with Saints Peter, Clement, Paul and Sebastian by Ghirlandaio. It can be visited its Tower (3) and the Cathedral Museum (4), small museum that keeps the golden and silver decoration for Volto Santo. There's a combined ticket for these 3 places and St. Giovanni e Reparata Church (9/ 6  adults/ reduced).
    • St. Giovanni e Reparata Church (10-18; 4/ free  adults/ kids under 6): former 12th century church used nowadays for opera shows. Nowadays it has an archeological zone (with Roman remains) and a bell tower with nice views.
    • Lucca Ducal Palace: palazzo built for Castruccio Castracani (duke of Lucca) by Giotto, inhabited afterwards by Paolo Guinigi and then transformed into palazzo pubblico. Currently it's the seat of the Province of Lucca.
    • Tower Guinigi (9:30-18:30 from Mar to Oct; 9:30-16:30 from Nov to Feb; 5/ 4  adults/ reduced): tower (45 m high) has 7 oaks that, according to the legend, lost all leaves when Paolo Guinigi died. From there it can be enjoyed magnificent views. There's a combined ticket for Guinigi Tower, Torre delle Ore and Lucca Botanic Garden for 2 days (9/ 6  adults/ reduced).
    • National Museum of Villa Guinigi (12-19:30 Tue-Sat; 4€/ 2€/ free  adults/ retiree and students/ kids under 18): museum located in former Paolo Guinigi's villa with expositions about Lucca, its history and its art.
    • Torre delle Ore (9:30-18:30 from Mar to Oct; 9:30-16:30 from Nov to Feb; 5/ 4  adults/ reduced): tallest tower in the city that dates back to 1390, as a clock tower. It was changed in the 18th century by the watchmaker Louis Simon and its mechanism is still in use nowadays.
    • St. Michele in Foro Church (7:40-12 and 15-18 from May to Sep; 9-12 and 15-17 from Oct to Apr): 11th century Romanesque style church built where there used to be the Roman foro whose façade is quite impressing (and it's one of the most outstanding churches in Lucca). Its inside is quite dark but has an impressing painting by Filippino Lippi, Pala Migrini.
    • Piccini Birth House (10-19 from Mar to Oct; 10-17 Wed-Mon from Nov to Feb; 7€/ 5€/ free  adults/ retiree and students/ kids under 11): museum that shows the beginnings of the famous composer Piccini, discovering its personality, passions and genius.
    • Domus Romana Lucca (9-13 and 15-19; 3): small museum that shows the remains of an old Roman home that has been only partially excavated.
    • Pfanner Palace (10-18 from Apr to Nov; rest of the year open on request; 6.50/ 5.50€/f ree  adults/ retiree and students/ kids under 12): 17th century palazzo that belonged to Felix Pfanner, Austrian inmigrant who introduced beer in italy. Its garden is quite charming, with an artificial pond and 18th centuries statues. Here it was partially filmed The Portrait of a Lady by Jane Campion.
    • Basilica of St. Frediano (9-18:30; 3€/ 2€/ free  adults/ students/ kids under 11): 12th century Romasque style church in whose façade there's an impressing golden mosaic. It also has a huge 12th-century Romanesque baptismal font and St. Fridianus remains.
    • Piazza dell'Anfiteatro

      Basilica of St. Frediano
    Piazza del Duomo and St. Martino Cathedral
    In case you'd like to explore the coast of the province, 37 km west from Lucca, can be found the undervalued town of Pietrasanta, a 23,666 inhabitants town that surprises all its visitors for its pedestrian Old Town and amazing style. it's home of the Colombian artist Fernando Botero. Some of its main squares are Piazza Carducci and Piazza del Duomo. Its Old Town is very interesting, built around Piazza Garibaldi. The most impressing point in Massa Marittima is the duomo, St. Martino Cathedral (8-12:30 and 15-18; free), cathedral from 1256 whose red-brick bell tower is still unfinished. Other sightseeing points are Museum of Maquettes (9-13 and 14-19 Tue-Sat, 16-19 Sun-Mon; free), small museum that displays several moulds used for famous statues sculpted in Pietrsanta; and Sant'Agostino Church, 13th century Romanesque church used for art expositions. Near this church there's a way called Via della Roca that goes up to the 14th century wall and Guinigi Palace (built as Paolo Guinig residence) ruins. This place provides great views of the Ligurian Sea and the town.

    Where can I eat in Lucca?

     Lucca has some interesting places to eat. In case your budget is reduced you can enjoy tasty food for not much in Pizzeria da Felice () or Trattoria da Leo (Via Tegrimi 1). The city has a wide culinary offers for higher prices like Ristorante Giglio (Piazza del Giglio 2) or Local Food Market (Via San Paolino 116). There are also very recommended places to have an ice-cream like Grom (Via Fillungo 56).
    In case your choice is visiting Pietrasanta an intelligent choice is eating at Filippo () or try some wines at L'Enoteca Marcucci (Via Garibaldi 40).

     
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